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November 01, 2006
Beer and Oysters--Make the Beer a Porter and Fry the Oysters
As we tasted our way through many porters, oysters were mentioned more than once.
The sometimes the piney, earthy and often bitter taste of these ales strikes me as it would be a fine partner for plump, briny-sweet oysters. Oysters on the half shell would be fine, especially if they were served with an Asian dipping sauce with a soy sauce base instead of the more typical mignonette sauce. (Red cocktail sauce is definitely not an option.)
But instead of plain oysters, I decided to serve them fried. I think carbonated drinks are excellent with fried foods; their fizz seems to temper the food’s oily richness.
I then decided to head in the direction of tempura with the final dish, and fry slices of sweet potato to serve alongside the oysters. My dipping sauce, with a soy sauce base, as I might have served with raw oysters, is bolstered with tangy grated daikon.
You can order shucked oysters, with their liquor, as their juice is called, from a fish market. Their sweet oyster liquor, strained of any grit, seasons the batter, and white cornmeal enhances the crunch.
Dip the sweet potatoes, then the oysters, in the batter one piece at a time and let any excess batter drip off before you drop them in the hot oil. It’s best to fry the sweet potatoes first, because they are not as wet and will stay crisp longer as they drain.
Though I suggest piling the oysters and the sweet potatoes on a platter, giving small bowls of sauce to each guest, they could also be divided into individual servings. Either way, you are likely to find that the modestly honeyed earthiness of the sweet potatoes and the oceanic succulence of the oysters are in perfect harmony with the porters.
Source: “Beer and Oysters, but Make the Beer a Porter and Fry the Oysters,” Florence Fabricant, New York Tines, Novenber 1, October 18, 2006
Posted by fortna at November 1, 2006 06:24 AM
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