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December 31, 2005
Wine Country Flood Fears
It just poured down rain last night and this morning-- 4 to 5 inches of rain; winds hit 50 to 60 mph in some areas.
With high tides bumped up by high winds and Napa’s close proximity to the North Bay this storm system combined with all other elements may very well prove to be a bad flood problem.
Guerneville, on the Russian River, is famous for flooding when systems like this role in–another area of high concern!
With highly saturated slopes slides are likely to occur–let’s hope the vineyards stay intact.
2.) Johnny Cash's lyrical question, "How high's the water, mama?" will be Sonoma County's anthem this weekend as a wet, windy storm is expected to strengthen today, renewing threats of flooding, mudslide and falling trees.
The storm, potentially packing wind gusts up to 50 mph along the coast and on hilltops, is expected to dump 2.5 to 4 inches of rain on Santa Rosa and more than 6 inches in some areas through the day and night, said Mike McAuliffe, a meteorologist with AccuWeather, a private forecasting service.
Santa Rosa's total rainfall in December was 11.84 inches as of Thursday, more than twice the average rainfall for the month and marking December 2005 as the eighth wettest December since 1888.
By Saturday morning, residents in Healdsburg, Guerneville and other flood-prone areas will be anxiously watching the Russian River rise past flood stage, river forecasters said Thursday.
"Significant flooding" is expected Saturday morning along the river from Cloverdale to Healdsburg, in Alexander Valley and downstream at Guerneville and Monte Rio, the National Weather Service said in a flood watch issued Thursday.
Wary residents were snapping up free sandbags Thursday as emergency management officials watched computer screens for the latest forecasts.
If more than 3 inches of rain falls today on an already saturated landscape, flooding and mudslides are likely, county officials said.
PG&E and Sonoma County road maintenance have repair crews ready to move should flooding and mudslides block roads and take down power lines, officials said.
Dave Robertson, deputy director of county public works, said he would send all 97 road workers into the field if necessary Saturday.
Some crews used Thursday's weather break to fill potholes created by the soaking rains, Robertson said.
PG&E's own weather forecasters expect the North Bay to get twice as much rain as the rest of the Bay Area, said Lisa Randle, a utility spokeswoman.
County officials will decide today whether to open the Emergency Operations Center for the weekend.
"We're pretty close to the line," said Paul Hess, deputy emergency services coordinator.
If the river reaches 38 feet at Guerneville, 6 feet above flood stage, and seems likely to hold that level, the emergency center and public shelters will be opened, Hess said.
This radar image shows the back side of the storm as it moves off both east and north.
A second storm, expected Sunday, appears lighter than today's, but could still drop up to 2.5 inches on Santa Rosa, McAuliffe said.
The latest rains follow storms that begin Dec. 18, when the jet stream straightened out and began delivering a series of storms from the Pacific Ocean north of Hawaii, he said.
An area from Brookings, Ore., to San Francisco Bay is "right in the crosshairs" of the storm track, McAuliffe said.
At Friedman's Home Improvement in Santa Rosa, customers' cars and trucks lined up as many as 10 deep Thursday for the store's offer of 20 free sandbags, on a "shovel your own sand" basis.
"It's wonderful," said Laurie Thomsen of Healdsburg, who planned to fortify a granny unit in the flooded back yard of her in-laws' home on Oak Street by the Sonoma County Fairgrounds.
The yard is "like a lake," said Justin Hinkle, 10, her great-nephew visiting from Oregon.
Friedman's hauled in 45 yards of sand since Wednesday, Operations Manager Troy Loots said. Free sandbags also are available at the stores in Sonoma and Ukiah.
Sonoma County has free sandbags available at the fire station and library in Guerneville. The sandbags are for diverting surface runoff, not keeping out a flood from the river, officials said.
Sources:
1.) Introduction, etc.: Dave Fortna, Editor: AvenueVine, December 31, 2005
2.) “Forecast renews flood fears,” Guy Kovner, December 30, 2005
3.) Graphics: NOAA’s Weather Service, December 31, 2005
More Later!
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Have A Safe & Happy New Year!
The Staff and I, here at 
, would like to take this opportunity to thank each and every one of you for your continued interest in our site.
Thanks Again!
Best of Times in the New Year All of You,
Dave Fortna, Editor and all the Staff @
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December 30, 2005
A Look At Oregon’s 2005-06 Agriculture
Katy Coba, Oregon Department Of Agriculture Director, Looks Back At 2005 And Ahead To 2006:
Salem, Oregon - Oregon Department of Agriculture director Katy Coba remains optimistic about the industry heading into 2006 after another year of challenges and accomplishments. The following are excerpts from an interview concluding her third year as ODA director.
How Oregon agriculture was characterize for 2005:
It was a bit of a rough year due to mother nature. The strange wet and mild weather caused some challenges for producers, ranging from different crop diseases to molds to rusts to not being able to get pollination. I don't know if we will be setting a new record for farm income in 2005 like we did in 2004. Hopefully, we won't be too far off.
What were some of the accomplishments for 2005:
One positive is the fact that beef prices remained high in the U.S. Earlier in the year, there was a debate about reopening the Canadian border to product coming into the U.S. Many in the industry were concerned about what that would do to beef prices. Well, they've remained strong. The recent reopening of the Japan market to U.S. beef is certainly good for the industry as a whole. Oregon is not one of the top beef producers nationally. However, Japan is Oregon agriculture's number one international customer. We have a very good relationship with Japan and want to maintain that relationship. I was concerned that a continued delay in reopening Japan to U.S. beef might spill over into some of Oregon's other agricultural products.
There have also been some good things happening with renewable energy in Oregon. We are one of the top wind producing states in the U.S. We continue to look for opportunities for our agricultural producers with methane digesters and with the potential for biodiesel production.
Overall, our producers this past year have done a great job in continuing to be creative and innovative in order to compete in a global economy.
Focusing more on marketing, what can be expected in 2006:
Locally, we will continue to work with the Brand Oregon effort to identify opportunities to highlight Oregon products within our own state. We've had some success with the Oregon Bounty Campaign, which expanded in November. More restaurants and retail operations participated this year. Continuing growth in farmers markets is very exciting. The ability for rural and urban Oregon to connect around food is a good thing for agriculture.
The domestic market was another plus in 2005. ODA participated with annual ryegrass folks in leading a trade mission to the Midwest exploring the use of annual ryegrass as a cover crop for corn and soybeans. That looks like it has some great potential and we're seeing increased sales there. I'm really hopeful that can take off and provide a new market for Oregon grass seed growers.
We are very active in the international marketplace and still have a strong presence in Japan, butæwe continue to work in China as well. With the 2008 Summer Olympics in Beijing approaching and the Chinese focus on beautification, we've taken advantage by supplying Oregon grass seed. Now we're exploring opportunities for nursery products. There is great potential there. We are seeing opportunities in China for Oregon wine and other foods. That market is big and challenging, but I think Oregon will do well there.
2006 Horizon for Oregon agriculture and the natural resource base:
I sum this up into three simple, uncomplicated words: land, water, and air. There are definitely issues in all three categories. Land use- what happens in the aftermath of Measure 37's passage, what happens with the task force that is being assembled to review Oregon's land use system and figure out where it needs to move in the coming years- is going to be very important for our industry. There is no question that those in agriculture have different opinions when it comes to land use. But regardless of individual opinions, we need to be active in that discussion.
ODA is the lead working with the agriculture industry on water quality issues. We've made some great strides in that area. The industry has really stepped up to the plate in its contribution to protecting Oregon's environment with regard to water quality. Whether it's establishing riparian areas along streams or fencing streams to keep animals out to improve water quality, the industry deserves kudos. We're paying a lot of attention now to water quantity issues. There is no doubt that we're going to see more and more pressure in the future on having enough water to meet all Oregonians needs, whether that is for agriculture, other industries, recreation, or municipalities. We've got to be creative in looking at ways to store water that we get in the winter for use in the summer. ODA and the agriculture industry will continue to be involved in that discussion.
Then the latest natural resources front is air quality. There is a lot of focus on some of our larger dairies in the state and their contribution to air quality problems, if any. Frankly, the challenge throughout the United States is that we don't have good data, we don't have good information on the impact that agriculture has on air quality. So ODA will be working with the industry to better understand that and look at creative ways to minimize the impact while continuing to allow Oregon's agriculture industry to operate and be successful.
Hopes for 2006 Oregon agriculture:
I hope for a good weather year- plenty of rain and a strong snowpack, so we are not looking at drought conditions as well as strange weather patterns that challenge our industry. I hope that our markets continue to remain open to us and that we work with the industry to look for new market opportunities. Oregon has such incredible products in terms of diversity and quality. That really is our marketing niche. Overall, I want to see agriculture continue to have a high profile in the state in terms of its importance. I spend a lot of time delivering that message to our urban cousins. It's incumbent on all of the industry to deliver the message that agriculture contributes to Oregon's economy, it contributes to Oregon's environment, and it contributes to Oregonians' ideal about this state and the quality of life that we enjoy. Producers and processors- keep up the good work. Consumers- buy Oregon products.
Source: “Oregon Department Of Agriculture Director Looks Back At 2005 And Ahead To 2006,” Medford News, December 29, 2005
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The Year 2005 In Review A Look Back
U.S. consumers gained a lot of new looks at wine in the last year, but only those adventurous enough to take advantage of the news benefitted.
It all started with the release of the film "Sideways" in 2004, in which the lead character goes on a quest to find a great pinot noir in California's Central Coast.
The fact that this sleazy character is a near, if not actual, alcoholic who steals money from his own mother didn't seem to tarnish the message of this often-hilarious film. Tens of thousands of wine lovers drove through the verdant Santa Barbara hills throughout 2005, following the path taken by the film's antihero.
This frenetic activity by wine tourists spurred pinot noir sales to heights local wineries never imagined. And just when the impact of the film seemed to wane, it began airing on cable and satellite channels, reinvigorating the pinot quest.
In May, the U.S. Supreme Court ruled that states could not discriminate against in-state wineries, thereby opening the door for wineries to ship directly to consumers in other states. As a result, many state laws changed to accommodate direct shipping to consumers in other states. Gov. Jennifer Granholm's signature went on a new Michigan law within the last week.
The major impact was for wine lovers who wanted to get their mitts on the great rieslings of New York and Michigan as well as some of the exciting wines of Virginia, Missouri and Texas. And Washington and Oregon benefited from interest by nonresidents in their increasingly excellent wines.
Consolidation continued with the world's largest wine company, Constellation Brands, formally taking over the Robert Mondavi Winery in January and then later acquiring the successful HRM Rex Goliath wine brand.
Imported wines continued to make a huge impact in the United States, with Australian wine reaching above 22 million cases in U.S. sales in 2005. New Zealand sales sailed off the charts, and Spanish red wines made a huge move forward, notably in restaurants. And Argentine and Chilean upscale brands hit U.S. shores.
Another trend that started in 2004 continued in '05 as a huge percentage of wines were offered in screw-capped bottles. Not only did Bonny Doon of Santa Cruz and Hogue Cellars of Washington switch exclusively to screw caps, but so did a number of $10-range U.S. wine brands that were launched to compete with lower-priced Aussie wines.
The famed $2 wines from Bronco Wine Co., under the name Charles Shaw, continued to sell at the Trader Joe's chain of stores, with numerous competitors hitting the shelves at $3 a bottle as former jug-wine buyers traded up to 750-milliliter bottles.
A backlash of sorts was seen in many upscale restaurants that once prided themselves on their wide selection of "cult" wines from California. Many such wines no longer were in vogue, and many sommeliers and wine buyers said they were tired of the high alcohols they were seeing. Many of the "cult" cabernet sauvignons were delivering alcohol in the 15 percent range.
As a result, wine buyers for upscale restaurants in San Francisco, Los Angeles, New York, Chicago and other major cities were looking more at Italian, French and Austrian wines.
To combat a growing sameness in their red wines, a number of U.S. wineries moved toward planting red wine grapes in cooler climates than in the past. This led to dramatic and distinctively different syrahs from California's Russian River Valley, Santa Lucia Highlands of Monterey and Santa Barbara coast regions.
And finally, one of the most appealing trends of all continued to grow: Wineries worldwide increased their production of dry, full-of-character pink wines for the hottest days of summer. These dry rose wines were occasionally not cheap but showed the freshness of the grape better than any red wine could hope to do.
Wine of the Week: 2003 Cousino-Macul Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo, "Antiguas Reservas" ($15) -- Medium-full body and attractive dried herb and black cherry complexity. Improves with aeration in a decanter to show notes of plums and chocolate. Should age two to four years, or try now with grilled meat dishes.
Source: “A year-end look back,” Dan Berger, December 29
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December 29, 2005
Twelve New Year Ninety Point Bubbliers
champagne bubble
HEIDSIECK MONOPOLE Brut Champagne Diamant Blanc NV $100.00 – Yumm!
Plenty of hazelnut, citrus and mineral notes in this tasty Champagne. It has a smooth texture and really glides across the palate. Its creaminess is balanced by a fresh acidity on the finish. Drink now through 2008.
NICOLAS FEUILLATTE Brut Rosé Champagne NV $40.00
A distinctive rosé Champagne that smells like potpourri or Christmas punch with its cinnamon and clove accents. There's depth and intensity to the berry and whole-grain bread notes, matched to a raw silk texture and vibrant structure. Excellent length. Drink now through 2010.
CHARLES HEIDSIECK Brut Champagne Réserve NV $40.00 -- Yum
Seductive toast, coffee and hazelnut aromas and flavors highlight this medium-bodied, elegant bubbly. It's intense, yet graceful, with balance and a long, mineral-tinged aftertaste. Would serve well as an aperitif or with food. Drink now through 2010. 4,700 cases imported.
DE ST.-GALL Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne NV $35.00
The toast and coffee notes suggest older reserve wines in this sumptuous bubbly. A mineral accent adds complexity, and it all remains elegant and focused, ending with a lingering mineral and candied fruit aftertaste. Drink now.
PIPER-HEIDSIECK Brut Champagne NV $35.00 -- Yum
This is creamy, enticing and bursting with honey, vanilla, hints of coffee and candied berry flavors, all matched to a rich texture and firm structure. Fine length and harmony, with time to give. Drink now through 2010.
DUVAL-LEROY Brut Champagne NV $30.00
Complex and beguiling, with floral, rosemary, candied citrus and mineral aromas and flavors. This is both elegant and intense, with a vibrant structure and long finish. Ideal as an aperitif or with light foods. Drink now through 2007.
ALFRED GRATIEN Brut Champagne NV $48.00
Plenty of graphite and mineral aromas. Shifts gears to peach, lemon and vanilla notes. Rich and mouthfilling, with a firm structure and power. Good, lingering finish. Drink now. 12,500 cases made.
HEIDSIECK MONOPOLE Brut Rosé Champagne Rose Top NV $39.00 – Yumm!
Here's a Pinot Noir with bubbles. Bracing, tight and expressive, it conveys its berry, currant and herb notes with authority and a sense of place. Muscular, but not massive, it finishes with a lingering aftertaste of berries. A wine for the table. Drink now through 2008.
LOUIS DE SACY Brut Champagne NV $38.00
This is intense and vinous, with apple and cheese notes initially giving way to bread dough and mineral flavors. It's dry, with fine grip and balance, ending with a long, honey and mineral aftertaste. Drink now through 2008.
CHARLES ELLNER Brut Champagne Carte d'Or NV $38.00
Packed with flavor, this distinctive, dry Champagne displays candied berry, vanilla pastry, honey and mineral notes. Its rich texture is offset by a bright acidity and it's well-integrated and long. Drink now.
PIPER-HEIDSIECK Brut Rosé Champagne Sauvage NV $45.00 –Yumm!
A boldly flavored bubbly, displaying vivid cherry and berry flavors with a fine texture. Bracing acidity and a lingering finish of freshly crushed berries completes the presentation. Drink now.
COMTE AUDOIN DE DAMPIERRE Brut Champagne Cuvée des Ambassadeurs NV $45.00
An appealing combination of richness and structure sets the stage for pencil shaving, berry and peach notes in this medium-bodied Champagne. It's balanced and lively, with a mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2008.
GUESS IT’S EVIDENT I’M A LITTLE PARTIAL TO HEIDSIECK BY THE “YUMMS!”
Source: WS.com; “Cheers! It's New Year's,” Eric Arnold, December 23, 2005
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Champagne An Americans New Year’s Eve Trend
A new study of the New Year’s Eve plans of American wine lovers shows that while Champagne and sparkling wines still reign as the beverage of choice, expensive or special red and white wines will be a highlight of the evening for many.
A new study of the New Year’s Eve plans of American wine lovers shows that while Champagne and sparkling wines still reign as the beverage of choice, expensive or special red and white wines will be a highlight of the evening for many.
The survey conducted by Wine Opinions asked 530 “High-End” wine consumers about their New Year’s Eve plans and beverage choices. Most of the survey respondents (52 percent) indicted they would be celebrating at home with family or a few friends, while 20 percent said they were going to the home of a friend. For those entertaining at home, 30 percent indicated they would serve Champagne from France and 50 percent said they would serve sparking wine from elsewhere. However, 61 percent of the respondents said their plans included serving an expensive or special bottle of red or white wine, compared to 34 percent planning to serve cocktails, 33 percent serving inexpensive wine, and 26 percent serving beer.
For those consumers going to the home of a friend, 37 percent planned to bring an expensive or special red or white wine, compared with 35 percent who planned to bring a sparking wine and 20 percent who planned to bring Champagne.
“The study really confirms that for wine lovers, New Year’s Eve is not just about Champagne, it’s the time to crack open those special bottles you’ve been saving,” notes Christian Miller, the Director of Research Operations for Wine Opinions. John Gillespie, the founder of Wine Opinions, added, “We also saw that among consumers planning to go out to restaurants on New Year’s, 70 percent said they would order expensive red or white wines by the glass or bottle, compared to 43 percent planning to order Champagne and 21 percent planning to order sparkling wines.”
Survey respondents were also asked which of several luxury Champagnes they would most like to receive as a gift. Dom Perignon was chosen by 31 percent of the respondents, with 15 percent each choosing Roederer Cristal and Veuve Clicquot “La Grande Dame.”
Source: “Poll Shows New Year’s Eve Wine Consumption Trends,” PRWeb.pdf, December 28, 2005
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French Drink-Drive Laws Wrinkle Winemakers
Three glasses of wine with a meal has little affect on driving ability, according to a group of French winemakers.
Les 4 Vérités sur le Vin, a group campaigning for a higher legal driving limit for wine than for other types of alcohol, argues that the legal driving limit of 0.5 grams per liter of blood, among other regulations, is too hard on wine – and has led to declines in restaurant wine sales and national wine consumption.
According to government statistics, clamp downs on drink-driving have led to a safer environment. Since France stepped up enforcement of drunk-driving laws in late 2002, highway deaths have fallen 20%, official sources say.
But Fabrice Delorme, winemaker in Tavel and a member of Les 4 Vérités, said: “'It is inaccurate to compare wine with other alcohols. Fewer people drink and drive with too much wine than they do with too much harder alcohol.”
Statistics do not breakdown the types of alcohol involved in accidents, Delorme said, referring to the group's information brochure, which has sold 110,000 copies since its publication six months ago.
'With the limit, you cannot drink three glasses of wine, even with a meal, which studies show hardly affect one's driving ability,' he added.
The group's four-page brochure includes statistics that contradict arguments for the strict law in France.
'Great Britain has 50% less accidental road deaths than in France, but has a higher blood alcohol limit of 0.8 g/l,' it reads.
According to worldwide statistics, the French alcohol limit for driving is the norm, while some countries, including China, Norway, Saudi Arabia and Poland, have lower or even zero tolerance, while the UK, Brazil and Canada, among others, have higher tolerance levels.
Source: “Winemakers slam French drink-drive laws,” Panos Kakaviatos, December 28, 2005
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December 28, 2005
Bronco Napa Ride Courts Again
From whence the grapes come is the issue. Bronco Wines seeks Supreme Court ruling over its use of "Napa" for some of its wines. Can you say Crane Lake?
• Can a wine use the word if its grapes are gown elsewhere?
• Bronco Wine continues its legal battle
The U.S. Supreme Court is being asked for the second time to decide whether
Bronco Wine Co. of Ceres likes the word “Napa.” It uses it on several of the wines it makes, such as Napa Ridge and Napa Creek.
But the wine is based on grapes grown elsewhere, not in the highly-touted Napa Valley.
In 2000, a law went into effect in California saying wines calling themselves Napa-anything must be based on Napa-grown grapes.
Bronco has fought a series of court battles contending there’s nothing wrong with its use of the word. Now it’s going back to the U.S. Supreme Court for a second time on the issue.
The winemaker says forbidding it the use of the word is an unlawful restriction on its free speech rights among other things. But state courts have disagreed, resulting in the appeal to the nation’s highest court.
The trade association Napa Valley Vintners of St. Helena contends the state law is designed to ensure consumers they’re getting Napa-quality wine when they buy.
It says “wine brand names that use Napa place names, yet intentionally produce wines from grapes grown outside the Napa appellation with lower quality and less expensive grapes … undercut the reputation of Napa Valley-grown products while trading on the cache of the renowned wine growing region.”
There has been no indication from the court if it will hear arguments in the case. If it declines, then the normal course of action would see the California Supreme Court ruling, which was against Bronco, standing.
Bronco is a privately held company. Its 2003 revenues were estimated at $250 million by Hoovers Online, a financial information company.
It contends its labeling is perfectly legal under federal law.
The “Napa” brand names in contention were acquired by Bronco over the years since its 1973 founding. For example, Bronco spent $40 million to buy the “Napa Ridge” label from Beringer Wine Estates in 2000.
Source: “Central Valley winemaker heads to Supreme Court over use of ‘Napa’,” CVBT, December 28, 2005
Aditional Information:
---------------------------------------------------------------
“Napa Wine Case-Bronco Denied Appeal”
“California Court Downs Bronco's Appeal”
“Calif. Court Sides With Napa Vintners”
“Bronco Still Bucking the Napa Boys In Court”
“What’s Been Going On, or Is Up With Bronco Wines Lately?”
1.) Bronco Goes Before The U.S. Supreme Court to Hear Case Over Napa Name Brands!
2.) Bronco’s Cheap wine line attempts to make Restaurant Inroads
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Joseph Phelps Vineyards Insignia A Vertical Tasting
Time in a Bottle: One Wine's Evolution
Until very recently, Joseph Phelps Vineyards was a midsize California producer that operated with little glory. Napa Valley old-timers like Beaulieu Vineyards, Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, Heitz Wine Cellars and Robert Mondavi got the credit for establishing Napa cabernets as world-class wines, while newcomers like Colgin, Harlan Estate and Screaming Eagle turned cabernet into a cult, with bottles going for hundreds of dollars apiece.
Phelps, a quiet pioneer, turned out wines that were consistently good and often excellent. Established in 1972, Joseph Phelps Vineyards was an early proponent of Rhone-style wines in California; Le Mistral, its southern Rhone blend, remains one of America's best. Phelps was also a leader in producing vineyard-designated cabernets, like its Backus Vineyard wine and especially its Eisele Vineyard wine.
Phelps's flagship wine has been Insignia, one of the earliest Bordeaux blends to receive a proprietary designation. Nowadays it's easy to reel off names like Dominus and Maya, but Insignia was there first.
But it was only in the last month that Phelps Insignia came to be seen as exalted, when Wine Spectator magazine selected the 2002 Insignia as its wine of the year.
Such an honor comes at a price. Insignia fans who previously could count on obtaining the wine rather easily are now chasing down stray bottles at $150 apiece, even though Insignia is produced in quantity - 15,000 cases of the 2002.
The Dining section's wine panel had long planned to taste a dozen vintages of Insignia to find out how it compared with other established California cabernets like Monte Bello, Shafer Hillside Select, Stag's Leap's top bottles, Chateau Montelena, Beringer Vineyards Private Reserve and perhaps a few others.
Indeed, Frank J. Prial, Florence Fabricant and I, joined by Tim Kopec, wine director at Veritas, a restaurant in the Flatiron district, were highly impressed by the bottles we tasted, covering 12 vintages from 1978 to 2002. I felt the wines were remarkably consistent in quality and style. Two bottles even earned four stars, our highest score and one we rarely award.
Many Napa cabernets, even at the highest level, are made in a very different way than they were 20 or 25 years ago. Growers plant new clones of grapes on different rootstocks, which can change the flavors and intensity, and they harvest lower yields, which can further concentrate the wine. They allow grapes to ripen longer, producing sweeter, more alcoholic wines.
Yet, even though the more recent vintages we tasted showed a tendency toward the bigger fruit-bomb style that is so popular today, they still retained the Insignia signature of balance, restraint and harmony. In terms of alcohol level, the wines were consistent, too. Through 2001, the wines we tasted ranged from a low of 13.3 percent in 1986 to 14 percent in 1999. Only the 2002 rose above that, and, at 14.4 percent, it would most likely be on the low side of most top Napa cabernets.
As good as the Insignias were, Tim voiced a significant reservation. "I don't view them as thoroughbreds," he said. "There's consistency of winemaking, but not of origin."
He meant that unlike some top wines, the Insignia wines do not come from the same vineyard year after year. They lack personality traits derived from the specific site on which the grapes are grown, because the grapes come from a variety of vineyards, some owned by Phelps and some not, and the formula has changed from year to year.
Phelps has recognized this issue. The 2004 Insignia will be produced entirely from Phelps-owned vineyards in Oakville and the Stag's Leap District, the winemaker, Craig Williams, told me in November. "We need to begin to define exactly where Insignia is from," he said.
Nonetheless, like wines that come from great terroirs, the 12 Insignias we tasted reflected the qualities of particular vintages, living up to outstanding ones while outperforming bad ones. How else to explain the 2000 Insignia, one of our favorites, even though the 2000 vintage was regarded as mediocre? While the 2000 Insignia was lighter than some of the other years, the wine was gorgeous, beautifully proportioned with a perfume of raspberries and strawberries. It is delicious now and has at least a solid decade ahead of it.
The Insignia from 1997, a great year in Napa, received our highest possible rating, a unanimous four stars. This wine has power, finesse, balance, complexity, purity, you name it. As with most of the Insignias we tasted, it cried out for food - a leg of lamb, a good steak, something simple and rich.
We awarded four stars to one other wine, the 1978, the oldest wine we tasted. That vintage was also excellent in California, and like other '78's I've tasted recently, including the Hillside Select and the Monte Bello, the Insignia is holding up beautifully. It still has persistent, vibrant fruit flavors, with an undertone of mint and eucalyptus and a detectable structure.
Beginning with the 1999 vintage, and especially in the 2001 and 2002 vintages, we noticed that the wines appeared to be bigger and rounder. Frank in particular felt that the change was coming at the expense of elegance and that the '99 could be "any hotshot California cabernet."
That may be true, but I found it awfully hard to be critical of the '01 or the '02. Both were big, young and powerful. The '02 in particular showed remarkable complexity. Yet neither was overpowering, overly flamboyant or over-sweet.
These are wines that are meant for the dinner table. You can still hear the melody in these bottles. In an age of wines that scream at you, that's a pretty good achievement for any year.
Source: Wines of The Times; “Time in a Bottle: One Wine's Evolution,” ERIC ASIMOV, December 28, 2005
--------------------------------------------
My Wednesday morning post to the “Wine & Spirit” section:
fortna999 - 7:12 AM ET December 28, 2005 (#3839 of 3839)
O "...like the lexis-nexis of wine! ..." K
Eric’s Article “Time in a Bottle,” December 28, 2005: http://www.nytimes.com/2005/12/28/dining/28wine.html
I just cellared a few bottles of the ‘02 and am planing a meal around one, a couple of Russian River Pinot Noir and some Champagne. The Insignia has always pleased my palate and far out shined my expectation–I too, recommend this “California Red Table Wine” to all my readers–lovers of the Red.
I’ll have to go through the cellar and see if I can put together a small vertical of this wine and make a party of it!
Thanks for you input Eric, I enjoyed the read very much.
Best,
Dave Fortna
Editor: AvenueVine
http://www.AvenueVine.com
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Beam Creamed Starbucks Liqueur
Chicago-based Jim Beam Brands Co. and Starbucks Coffee Co. have joined forces once again to launch Starbucks Cream Liqueur.
The 15- percent alcohol-by-volume liqueur became available nationally in late October on- and off-premise, but isn’t sold in Starbucks stores. It comes just in time for the holiday season and on the heels of portfolio mate Starbucks Coffee Liqueur, which was launched in February.
“We are very pleased with the success of our first entry into the spirits category,” says Gerry Lopez, president of Starbucks Global Consumer Products. “Creating a cream liqueur is a natural extension for the brand and is consistent with our long-term strategy of surprising and delighting our customers by extending the Starbucks Experience outside of our retail stores.”
Continues Thomas Flocco, president and CEO of Jim Beam Brands Worldwide, “The current cream liqueur category is not only sizable, it also has a small number of major players, and we are well-positioned to leverage that from two vantage points. First, the holiday season represents an important time of year for spirits, not to mention the ideal season for introducing a new cream liqueur to market. Second, building on the success of Starbucks Coffee Liqueur, we’re confident about this product’s ability to meet consumer preferences on taste.”
Jim Beam and Starbucks are banking on the fact that their cream liqueur will be bring a breath of fresh air into a category segment that is dominated by Irish brands, particularly Baileys.
Starbucks Cream Liqueur blends cream, spirits and a hint of Starbucks coffee and can be enjoyed over ice, in coffee, or as the signature ingredient in cocktails. It retails for $22.99 a 750-ml. bottle and $28.99 a 1-liter bottle.
Source: “Jim Beam & Starbucks Launch Cream Liqueur,” Courtney Thompson, November 22, 2005
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Grapes Over Bears Napa Guns Rule
A leaf-covered pond sits a short walk from Bill and Gail Dakin's dream home in the rugged hills surrounding the sublime Pope Valley in Napa County. The tree-shrouded grounds, with a nature preserve on one side and a vineyard on the other, are accessible only by a winding dirt road often marked by the footprints of bears.
Bears have frequented the pond and an adjacent meadow since the Dakins bought the property, which they call Wild Springs Ranch, a decade ago.
Now, just like that, they are gone. The new owner of the adjacent Aetna Springs Vineyard, tired of having his prized grapes eaten, hired federal trappers a few months ago to kill the offending bears.
"It makes me sick," said Gail Dakin, standing recently by the pond with tears in her eyes. "I've cried every day for the last four months."
The tragic fate of their beloved bruins has thrust the Dakins into a seething debate over the future of the nation's most famous wine-growing region. Wildlife is often the loser as vineyards steadily creep into the hinterlands amid a growing demand for the kind of premium grape that can be produced only in mountainous wildland regions.
Wild pigs, deer, turkeys and even mountain lions, have regularly been trapped and shot as a result of complaints by vineyard owners, according to Eric Larson, the deputy regional manager for the California Department of Fish and Game.
"It's not uncommon," Larson said. "Certainly for areas like Sonoma, Mendocino and Napa counties, vineyards are our largest group that is requesting depredation permits." In fact, he said, vineyard owners were the reason state law was changed this year to include wild turkeys on the list of animals that can be killed.
Cabernet grapes in rugged parts of the North Bay are a precious commodity, fetching from $5,000 to $7,000 a ton. As a result, vineyards are suddenly popping up on slopes and ridgetops. The pristine countryside of the Pope Valley, once sheep and cattle country, has been transformed by vineyards over the past decade or so. Even older, established vineyards such as Aetna Springs are feeling the pressure to produce higher-grade fruit and are taking steps to protect their investments.
Paul Maroon, who bought the Aetna Springs vineyard six years ago, was given permits to kill the bears after he showed the damage they did to his fence and vines, Larson said. The department, he said, is required by law to issue a permit if damage can be shown to personal property.
Trappers shot bears on Aug. 24, Sept. 17, Sept. 18 and Oct. 25. In all, two male black bears and two females were killed by federal animal control officers, according to Larson.
"They damage the fences on a daily basis almost faster than we can repair them," Maroon said. "The damaged fences allow the deer to enter. The bear eat the grapes, as do the deer, and they both damage the vines, sometimes killing 12-, 13-year-old vines."
He and the vineyard manager have tried everything, Maroon said, including making loud noises, which bothered the neighbors. Through it all, he said, the bears kept coming, posing increasing danger to field workers.
Bill Dakin, a retired San Ramon Valley Fire Department captain, said Maroon could have electrified his fence or just accepted the fact that the bears were there first.
Concerns like the Dakins' are not unusual in the wine-growing region. The industry has been growing steadily for many years, mostly to the delight of Californians and even environmentalists, who prefer vineyard development to housing development.
But bushwhacking winemakers, searching for the perfect grape-growing conditions, quickly found an appreciative clientele among the black bears that roam through the forests along the coastal range from California to Washington.
The picturesque Pope Valley, about 18 miles east of the Silverado Trail, on the east side of Howell Mountain, is both a prime wine-growing region and a wildlife corridor. Conflicts between farmers, ranchers and wildlife have been common ever since gold and silver prospectors drove out the Wappo Indians in 1859.
So it's not surprising that a bear-wine conflict would occur in the Pope Valley -- or that residents would take sides.
"I've farmed all my life and had livestock killed by coyotes and mountain lions, so I can see both sides of it," said Johnny White, the Dakins' son-in-law, who manages vineyards and owns cattle and sheep in the Pope Valley. "It's easy for you and me to say that the guy should give up some grapes to the bears, but he's the one making the mortgage payment."
Ann Curtis, the director of Aetna Springs Golf Course, just down the road from the winery, called the controversy "wine for blood, life versus profit."
"It isn't just bears. Herds of deer have been killed over the same thing," said Curtis, who has lived in Pope Valley for 34 years. "To come into a wildlife area and then kill off the wildlife is wrong. I don't see much difference between throwing a sandwich out the window for bears in Yosemite Park and inviting them to dinner here by putting grapes out for them to eat."
Concerns about wildlife and the environment prompted Napa County to pass tougher ordinances for hillside vineyards in the early 1990s, increasing the restrictions for every increase in slope.
But the slope regulations haven't stopped hillside planting in Napa or anywhere else. The idea of better, fruitier wine has developed such cachet in recent years, according to wine experts, that winemakers are willing to go through as many hoops as it takes to plant vines in the hills. There are currently plans to plant hundreds of acres of grapes on a rocky pasture on Atlas Peak known for decades as the Circle S ranch, in Napa County, and on ridgetops above the Gualala River, which stretches from the Mendocino County line south into Sonoma County.
The developer, Premier Pacific Vineyards has come under fire after the Land Trust of Napa County discovered that a promised wildlife corridor on another one of its projects did little to restrict development or protect wildlife.
"They will be ringing the dinner bell for all the bears in the area and they are not going to tolerate their grapes being eaten," said Chris Malan, a Sierra Club member and the executive director of the Institute for Conservation, Advocacy Research and Education, in Napa. "They get very upset when their vines get broken and get eaten."
Premier Pacific, like many other vineyard owners, prefers to see itself as a good steward of the land. Its CEO, William Hill, has promised to plant on only a fraction of the land and preserve 2,000 acres of old growth redwood forest on the Gualala River land, which had been owned by logging companies for decades.
Other vineyards have gone a few steps further.
Jerre Sears, owner of Black Sears Vineyards on Howell Mountain said all the growers he knows on the 1,800-foot peak live harmoniously with bears and other wildlife, writing off the grapes they devour as a kind of tax for doing business in their territory.
"We've had our vineyard for 20 years and we've had a bear in our vineyard every year," said Sears. "We feel it's just part of life, of nature, so we share."
One particularly aggressive bear on Howell Mountain had to be trucked to a different location by Napa County Animal Services, but nobody ever considered killing it, according to vineyard workers.
The Dakins have decorated their house with sculptures, carvings, photographs and drawings of bears, but the log they kept of bear activity has been blank since October.
"All the time we've been here, we've kept quiet about the bears because we were afraid hunters would hear about them," Bill Dakin said. "We never dreamed this would happen. It just seems like such a crime -- they are such neat animals. There's got to be a better way."
‘ECOLISION’: Where Wildlife and Commerce Collide–the Ecosystem usually loses out. Mitigate, mitigate, mitigate; without fail death on it’s heals, the bears don’t pay for the Screaming Eagles at their nests
Source: “NAPA COUNTY: Wine country casualties Grape-eating bears killed as vineyards' territory expands,” ">Peter Fimrite, December 26, 2005
Posted by fortna at 12:24 AM | Comments (0)
December 27, 2005
Three New Liquors For 2006
For those who look forward to new releases of that wonderful Cactus Juice And Vodka, here’s three new ones to watch out for release in 2006:
XXX Silver | Black Cuervo | Van Gogh’s Broadening Palate
XXX Silver
- XXX Silver -Another New Tequila
The Los Angeles, California-based 123 Spirits will extend its XXX Tequila portfolio with the addition of XXX Silver, a premium spirit that will be available nationwide in January.Produced in Mexico using blue agave and traditional Tequila-making methods controlled by the country’s Tequila Regulatory Council, XXX Silver has “all the fire, without the burn,” according to the company.
David Ravandi, owner and developer of XXX Tequila Gold and Silver, unveiled his new product at the Tax Free World Association (TFWA) exhibit in October in Cannes, France. XXX Silver has 40-percent alcohol by volume and retails for $16.99 a 750-ml. bottle.
Source: “123 Spirits Creates XXX Silver Tequila,” Laura Pelner, December 13, 2005
Black Cuervo
- New Black Cuervo Launches
- New York City-based Jose Cuervo International has launched Jose Cuervo Black Medallion, a super-premium Tequila that is currently available in four markets and will be rolling out nationally in 2006.
Black Medallion differs from most Tequilas in that it’s aged for a minimum of 12 months in new char barrels, not in previously used barrels. The result is a complex taste with slightly oaky flavors, which, according to the company, is reminiscent of aged whiskeys. Brand marketers recommend mixing Black Medallion with cola and lime, or sipping the spirit on the rocks.
“This smooth, rich and versatile spirit shatters tequila stereotypes by offering consumers a ‘step up’ in quality, taste and style while giving them a reason to stay in the tequila category,” says Carlos Arana, managing director at Jose Cuervo International. “Tequila is no longer just about shots and margaritas. With Black Medallion, Jose Cuervo is revolutionizing the way people think about and drink tequila.”
Black Medallion was launched in October in Illinois, Florida, Colorado and Indiana. The brand’s national release will be supported by a fully integrated marketing effort that includes promotions and special events, merchandising and sampling (where legal), in addition to a new advertising campaign.
“As consumers tastes evolve and their palates become more discerning, they seek products that reflect this heightened sense of quality,” says Neil Gallo, senior director at Jose Cuervo North America. “Cuervo Black is the perfect tequila to show the world you have grown up, not old.”
The Jose Cuervo Black Medallion bottle is square, similar to its portfolio-mates, and is embossed with the family crest and the signature family emblem. It retails for $19.99 a 750-ml. bottle.
Source: “Jose Cuervo Launches Black Medallion Label,” Courtney Thompson, December 26, 2005..
Van Gogh’s Broadening Palate
- Van Gogh Broadens Vodka Palate
- The Orlando, Florida-based “Luctor International” has added two flavors to its extensive Van Gogh Vodka portfolio, a caffeinated, coffee-flavored spirit called Double Espresso Double Caffeine Vodka and a black cherry-flavored vodka.
Double Espresso Double Caffeine is the first of its kind to be made with caffeine, according to the company, and one shot of the spirit is actually equal to three shots of regular espresso.
“People love to drink their espresso in the morning and this allows them to have their espresso at night too,” says David van de Velde, CEO of Luctor International. “Double Espresso Double Caffeine is so true to the espresso experience that even its color has to match. Our Double Espresso is the response to energy drinks. As people want that extra kick in the evening to keep going, Double Espresso gives that caffeine boost while preserving that wonderful espresso taste.”
Launched in November, Double Espresso Double Caffeine has 35-percent alcohol-by-volume (abv) and retails for $30 a 750-ml. bottle.
Black Cherry Vodka also hit shelves in November. The 35-percent abv vodka has the taste of freshly picked cherries, according to the company, and sells for $30. “It’s a perfect complement to our other fruit-flavored vodkas,” Van de Velde says. “Black Cherry brings you the flavor picked right from the tree. This it the taste of summer that can be enjoyed year-round.”
Source: “Van Gogh Releases New Flavored Vodkas,” Laura Pelner, December 08, 2005
We here at AvenueVine do look forward to reviewing these Liquors for you.
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French Wine In ‘ePod’ Cartons
I first saw cartons like these at the “THE NEW INNOVATORS” wine packaging design, a showcase event at Copia last October 18, 2005. I couldn’t help thinking about milk cartons when I saw them! They were just one of the ‘new inovations' in winw packaging’ on show that day–plastic 375ml. bottles, etc. ...
Now shipping out of France:
The New York-based Boisset America is introducing its new line of wines, French Rabbit, in early 2006. Sourced from grapes in the South of France, the 2004 French Rabbit Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are packaged in environmentally-friendly ePods, in addition to glass 750-ml. bottles. The 1-liter octagonal-shaped containers are made from Tetra Pak material that protects the wine from UV rays and have tamper-resistant plastic screw caps.
“Our mission is to be the market leader of quality wine in innovative and environmentally-friendly packaging,” says Jean-Charles Boisset, president of Boisset America. “Our family has been growing wine for two generations, so preserving the planet has always been important to us. While sustainable vineyard practices were already in use, we are delighted to add environmentally-friendly packaging to our repertoire.”
What makes French Rabbits’ ePod packaging good for the earth? It takes 26 times less fuel and CO2 emissions to transport one ePod than one bottle of wine. Additionally, the ePod is 100-percent recyclable, reduces packaging waste by 93 percent and cost 83 percent less to recycle compared to glass.
French Rabbit ePods boast an orange screw top for each varietal: with varying vibrant packaging colors: platinum for Pinot Noir, green for Chardonnay, purple for Cabernet Sauvignon, and pink for Merlot. Bunnies are pictured running above the logo, which converts the lower case b’s in “rabbit” into bunny ears.
French Rabbit will be available on- and off-premise in more than 30 states by March 1 2006. Both the 1-liter ePod and the 750-ml. bottle retail for $9.99—a decision Boisset made to reward consumers for choosing the ecologically-sound ePod.
Source: “Boisset To Launch French Rabbit Line,” Courtney Thompson, December 01, 2005
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Corks Cleansed of TCA Contamination!
New INNOCORK Process Removes TCA From Wine Corks.
The new INNOCORK process is unique because it removes TCA from natural wine corks, preserving all the mechanical and physical properties, and not just from cork granules used to produce technical (1+1) corks.
"This process eliminates up to 90 percent of the TCA from wine corks,” says James Herwatt, CEO of CSU. “Besides removing TCA, the INNOCORK process also reduces or eliminates other off-aromas making them more neutral and consistent.”
THERE’S THAT 10% THING, THOUGH?
The Cork Supply Group began searching for a TCA removal process six years ago. After discovering several processes that removed TCA but, unfortunately, deformed the corks, they developed what has become the INNOCORK process. “The patented process deep cleans wine corks in a steam distillation of ethyl alcohol,” said Herwatt. “The TCA is released into the ethyl alcohol as it passes in and around the corks. As the ethyl alcohol is removed, so is the TCA.”
“Currently, without the use of INNOCORK, our natural wine corks, when measured by solid phase micro-extraction (SPME), average less than 1.0 ng/l of TCA,” said Herwatt. “Our corks are already virtually taint-free, so the INNOCORK process will reduce the likelihood of tainted bottles even further.”
The Cork Supply Group in Portugal has been processing and conducting tests on INNOCORK corks for nearly three years, and for just over a year INNOCORK wines corks have been shipped to and used by a major premium winery in Rioja, Spain.
Currently, the Cork Supply Group has the capacity to process 5.5 million INNOCORKS a month at their production plant in Portugal, with plans to increase that capacity.
Since 1981, CSU has provided wineries with the highest level of quality corks available and is a member of the Cork Supply Group, with operations in Europe, North and South America, Australia and South Africa.
Besides owning state-of-the-art manufacturing facilities in Portugal, the Group also has five forest managers in Portugal who work directly with cork forest growers to ensure that quality is
maintained literally from the forest to the bottle. Global Quality Control, a unique independent quality assurance laboratory that maintains autonomous power to accept or reject all cork purchases made by the company based on strict quality standards,
also supports the Cork Supply Group.
Benicia, CA, December 22, 2005
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Parker Overwhelmed by ‘Sadistics’
Wine drinkers in the United States are experiencing a 'backlash' against the influence of Robert Parker, according to a new report
The survey of 403 high-end wine drinkers by website Wine Opinions found 48% of respondents cited Parker's recommendations as having 'no influence' on their decisions regarding whether to purchase wine costing US$20 or more.
61% rated friends and relatives as having the biggest influence on their purchasing decisions.
“Our speculation of a possible backlash is based on comparison of the Parker ratings versus other media sources for wine recommendations,” said Christian Miller, research director at Wine Opinions.
'Roughly double the number of people went out of their way to indicate that Parker has no influence at all on their 'twenty dollar plus' buying decisions. It's hard to think of a reason for this finding other than an intentional disregard,' said Miller, who adds that subsequent surveys will return to this topic.
According to Miller, the margin of error for the study ranges from 3-7%, depending on the particular question.
'In my opinion, to be heavily influenced by wine critics or gurus requires the consumer to be both involved enough in wine to actually read or pay attention to them but not be experienced and confident enough in their own taste. Thus one could theorize that the power of celebrity wine critics or individual media is related to the ratio of new 'wine aficionados' to both experienced wine aficionados and non-aficionados who nevertheless purchase high end wine,' Miller added.
John Gillespie, owner of Wine Opinions said he believes Parker to be a polarizing figure, adding 'the publication of Elin McCoy's biography of Parker, and the release of “Mondovino” (a highly influential anti-globalisation polemical documentary, in which Parker is criticised for his influence on style) have only made him more so.'
In March, economist Michel Visser concluded that a Parker score could add up to 15% to the price of a bottle of Bordeaux, a phenomenon he called 'the Parker effect'.
Source: decanter.com; "Parker 'backlash': survey,” Emmet Cole, December 23, 2005
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December 25, 2005
'Jesus Juice' Not Resurrected
A wine called "Jesus Juice" that includes a label with the image of a Michael Jackson look-alike in a Christ-like position on a cross will not be marketed, now that the California media power couple behind the effort has decided to abandon the idea.
As AvenueVine previously reported, "Jesus Juice" merlot was the pet project of actress Dawn Westlake and veteran CBS Evening News producer Bruce Rheins, who covered the Michael Jackson child molestation case.
Rheins and Westlake registered with the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office the name "Jesus Juice" in January of 2004, only two months after Jackson was arrested and several days after news sources reported that Jackson referred to the wine that he purportedly gave to minors as "Jesus Juice."
CBS News producer Bruce Rheins displays a T-shirt and mug as he mimics a Christ-like position on his 'Jesus Juice' wine label
But according to a Dec. 15 filing with the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office, the couple has corked and shelved the concept.
While no reason is specifically cited for their decision, the Smoking Gun website notes, "it is likely that criticism directed at the couple played a role in their decision. When news of the 'Jesus Juice' trademark application first surfaced ..., the planned wine's label ... was denounced as blasphemous. In addition, a Jackson spokesperson called the label 'outrageous and offensive' and said that the singer's lawyers were investigating the use of his image on the proposed product."
The phrase "Jesus Juice" has become well-known since reports spread of Michael Jackson using the term. "Jesus Juice," apparently refers specifically to white wines, as opposed to Jackson's other term, "Jesus Blood," for red wines.
Previous Article On This Subject:
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“Public Joke Goes Bad,” November 11, 2005-(AV)
“Michael Jackson's Tries Stopping 'Jesus Juice,” November 11, 2005-(AV)
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Source: worldnetdaily.com; “'Jesus Juice' gets corked for good,” Dawn Westlake, December 22, 2005
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Madonna Adorns Wine
Like a Vintner: The Material Girl's inspiration and influence has yet again reached beyond music (not to mention movies, children's books and very adult books).
This time, she's appearing on wine bottles.
California company Celebrity Cellars, which already has a line of Rolling Stones-labeled wines, is releasing the Confessions collection to accompany Madonna's new album, Confessions on a Dance Floor.
The wines, available in early January, include Barbera ($29); Cabernet Sauvignon ($40); Pinot Grigio ($29); and Confessions UnWine ($25), a "de-alcoholized" red table, uh, wine.
They come with a choice of two labels, either the album cover or an image of Madonna "as a sexy disco diva illuminated by lights from a mirror ball," as Celebrity Cellars puts it.
We don't know yet whether the wines are any good, but at least the reviews of Confessions have been pretty positive.
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Confessions Barbera
$29.00
Confessions Cabernet Sauvignon
$40.00
Confessions Pinot Grigio
$29.00
Confessions UnWine
$25.00
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Confessions Album Barbera
$29.00
Confessions Album Cabernet Sauvignon
$40.00
Confessions Album Pinot Grigio
$29.00
Confessions Album UnWine
$25.00
No amount of wine consumption could have enhanced the experience of listening to her 2003 release American Life
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December 24, 2005
CAVIAR
Tis’ the season so I thought we might take a look at some tasty stuff.
Although caviar might seem to be something quintessentially Russian, the word caviar is not, the native Russian term being ikra. Caviar first came into English in the 16th century, probably by way of French and Italian, which borrowed it from Turkish havyar.
Specialists have always claimed that caviar has many virtues. In his Grand Dictionnaire de cuisine, Dumas indicated that Caviar, made from "salted sturgeon eggs... has the property of preparing the stomach for other food, and can therefore replace soup.
"Brillat - Savarin, in his Physiologie du goût ", discussed the effects of an fish diet: "unanimous observations have demonstrated that it acts strongly on genetics, and awakens in both sexes the instinct of reproduction.
With 270 calories per 100 grams, caviar is not a high-calory food. It is, however, rich in protein (25.3 grams per 100 grams), fat (17 gr per 100 gr) and cholesterol (440 mg per 100 gr), but is low in sugar (4 gr per 100 gr). It also has a high content of mineral salts: 1,700 mg sodium, 164 mg potassium, 330 mg phosphorus and 51 mg calcium, along with vitamins D, A, C, B2, B44, B12 and PP. The recommended portion is from 30 to 50 gr of caviar per person.
Caviar should be served with a suitable utensil of gold, wood or horn, never silver, which alters the taste of the caviar. The best way to fully appreciate caviar is to taste small quantities, letting the grains burst open in the mouth to release their delicate flavor. All accompaniments pepper, lemon, onion and herbs must be banished from the table.
Those who find the taste of caviar too strong are advised to spread a small amount on a blini ( national Russian pancake) or sliced bread. But the true connoisseur always prefers to eat caviar unadorned.
According to Russian tradition, white vodka is the perfect accompaniment, but caviar is also delicious with Dry Champagne. Many chefs have recently created innovated recipes that incorporate caviar into complex dishes in the best of them, the delicate flavor is brought out by the contrasting interplay of flavors.
Russian caviar: Russian caviar has deserved its place in the list of most delicious foods of the
world a genuine symbol of russian cuisine.
Iranian caviar: Iranian Caspian "Malossol" caviar is ranked among a few unique gourmet
products..Dolce Vita.
American caviar: Caviar of Acipenser Transmontanus, produced in a controlled environment of the American aquiculture
Then there’s Farm Raised! The Eco-minded way to go.
Grades of Caviar:
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Sevruga Caviar
Sevruga - This is smallest of the Caspian Sea sturgeon and it produces a small grained caviar which is a smoky gray in color. The flavor is considered the sweetest of all. Sevruga is the odds-on favorite of many of the world's leading professionals and other caviar lovers.
Osetra Caviar
Osetra - A medium grained caviar produced by a mid-sized variety of sturgeon. It is light gray to brownish or golden yellow in color, with what is described as a nutty flavor. Many say it is the best tasting of all caviars
Beluga Caviar
Beluga - The rarest of all sturgeon caviars. Beluga is the largest of the sturgeon fishes and produces a pearly caviar which has an extraordinary slightly fruity, nutty, buttery taste. It is the largest grained of the sturgeon caviars and the color range is from light to very dark gray. Serving Beluga will certainly impress your guests
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Links Too...
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Fine Food International, Corp.
Tsar Nicoulai Caviar - FARM RAISED
Oh, Yea–-Parings: Champaign, Vodka and Friend(S)
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Holidays Wines Stuffs: Part 2
Here are a few stocking stuffers for wine lovers in your life, ranging from wine to gadgets to something that's just nice to look at.
No, it's not that kind of calendar. This one features some of the most accomplished women in the Napa wine industry, focusing on those who practice sustainable farming and are active in the community. The 21 women featured in the calendar—including Elaine Honig of Honig Vineyards, Mary Hall of Harlan Estate, Kathryn Hall of Hall Wines and Beth Milliken of Spottswoode Estate—were photographed in naturally beautiful spots in and around Napa Valley. Plus, all proceeds go toward the Napa Valley Grapegrowers' sustainable agriculture and community outreach efforts. $15 plus shipping.
Here’s a few more, or just go to the ‘Source’ link below for the full story.
Pocket Guide to Ontario Wines, Wineries, Vineyards & Vines
Three-in-one Le Creuset Screwpull
OXO steel wine pourer and stopper
Holiday Cleanup
Also See:
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Source: winespectator.com; “Here's to the Holidays: Part 2,” Eric Arnold, December 19, 2005
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Miss Sending That Card?
If you missed sending a card to that certain some-person, here’s a link to ‘London wine merchant Berry Bros. & Rudd,’ and their “Wine E-cards”-(just right click the Pic above)–Check out the ‘Butler Buddy’ one, too!
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From the Staff and Editors here at AvenueVine: Best of the Season to You, Your's and all our Readers, Supporters and Clients--Have a Great New Year!
Hey!:
Cheers :)
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ABC STINGS NAPA COUNTY WINERIES & BREWERY
A St. Helena winery and a brewery responded Tuesday to an undercover operation targeting sales of alcohol to minors in Napa County on Dec. 10, 2005.
Twelve of 20 Napa County establishments were cited for selling alcohol to underage decoys. Five of the offending businesses were in St. Helena. They were not available for comment Friday.
Pat Krueger, vice president of marketing and public relations at V. Sattui Winery, said the winery's citation was the first in 30 years and she estimated as many as eight million people patronized the winery during that time.
V. Sattui's citation involved a man under age 21 who bought a $24 bottle of Napa Valley cabernet off the shelf and left, Krueger said. She said V. Sattui and other wineries join in frequent education sessions for tasting room staff and hold employees to stringent standards regarding alcohol sales.
Michael Fradelizio, general manager and owner of the Silverado Brewing Company, said a bartender did not check the identification of a patron before serving a beer to him on Dec. 10.
The company's policy since it opened six years ago is to check the identification of any customer who looks younger than 30, Fradelizio said.
"We were disappointed that our system was not adhered to by the bartender on duty last week. We are turning this into a positive learning experience by having our bartender and service staff attend the Department of Alcoholic Beverage Control's class in responsible alcohol service,'' Fradelizio said.
The Napa County Sheriff's Department and the Department of Alcoholic Beverage Control conducted the decoy operation. ABC spokesman John Carr said the 60 percent violation rate of the Napa County sting was disappointing and far below the state average of 16 percent.
Source: cbs5.com.com; “ST. HELENA WINERY AND BREWERY RESPOND TO ABC STING,” Editors, December 21, 2005
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December 23, 2005
Two Books For The Christmas Wine Tree
Drink what you like. That's the easy answer to the complex question of, "What wine should I buy/serve for dinner/order in a restaurant?"
But how does one determine what wine he or she really likes, without buying countless bottles from all over the world, tasting them and taking notes?
Read "Wine Style: Using Your Senses to Explore and Enjoy Wine" by Mary Ewing-Mulligan and Ed McCarthy (John Wiley & Sons, 244 pages, $24.95). It's a book I wish I'd had when I first became interested in wine; I thought I had to know a lot about vino to appreciate it, so I studied more than I sipped. The authors say phooey.
This married couple -- she's the first female Master of Wine in the United States and president of the International Wine Center in New York City, he's a wine expert with particular expertise in Champagne -- has written numerous wine books, including "Wine for Dummies" and six others in the "Dummies" series.
"Wine Style" is their best effort for helping readers figure out which types of wine they like. Ewing-Mulligan and McCarthy begin with the premise that style trumps quality. They write that "quality alone is a silly reason for buying a wine. A wine's style -- what it tastes like -- is more critical to your enjoyment of it than its quality. A wine's style determines what foods it goes well with, whether it's appropriate to the occasion at hand, and whether the wine is to your taste."
They use non-jargony language to describe 10 wine styles, by chapter, such as "fresh, unoaked whites," "aromatic whites" and "powerful reds." Each style chapter describes the varietals that fall in the category, what they smell and taste like, their structure (tannin, acidity and alcohol levels) and which foods go best with them.
Take the "Fresh, Spicy Reds" chapter. The authors write that this style combines two main taste characteristics: medium to high intensity of aroma and flavor, and assertive but not imposing structure. They explain what intensity and structure mean, how the characteristics of these wines are created in the vineyard and winery, and list varietals that fit the category -- savory, personality-packed Dolcettos and Barberas from Italy, Spanish Tempranillos, some Zinfandels, cru Beaujolais, Argentine Malbecs, Chilean Carmeneres and other lesser-known varietals.
They also recommend dozens of specific wines to try, writing that this style "represents some of the world's real values."
In the crowd of wine education books, "Wine Style" stands out; it's packed with information that's easy to swallow and written in such a refreshing manner that you might just rush out and buy a bottle after reading a chapter. It's highly recommended for those new to wine or unsure of their choices.
A new book best appreciated by those who have some familiarity with the wines of Sonoma County is "A Wine Journey Along the Russian River" by Steve Heimoff (University of California Press, 285 pages, $24.95).
Heimoff, the West Coast editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, explores Sonoma County's wine regions along the Russian River, including Alexander Valley, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma Coast and Russian River Valley, covering their histories and interviewing the top grapegrowers and winemakers. Unfortunately, Mendocino County, through which the river also flows, is not part of Heimoff's story.
For those who didn't shine in geology class (that would be me), the book gets off to a slow start, with technical talk about the tectonic-plate movements that determined the river's course and created mountains, valleys and soils.
Heimoff also examines the effects heat, rain and fog have on grapevines. The fog that enshrouds the Sonoma Coast and Russian River Valley regions -- encouraging the growth of fine Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes -- burns off quickly about 17 miles east, near Healdsburg, where the south-flowing river makes a dogleg right toward the ocean and where warm-climate grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Zinfandel thrive in the Alexander and Dry Creek valleys.
For the basic wine-loving reader, the tour gets more interesting when Heimoff talks to the people who make wine along the Russian River -- Jordan Vineyard and Winery owner Tom Jordan in Alexander Valley, the Rochioli family of Rochioli Winery and Bob Cabral of Williams-Selyem Winery in Russian River Valley, and the Seghesios, Zinfandel superstars at Seghesio Family Winery in Alexander Valley, to name just a few. Their stories are enlightening.
This is no coffee-table book -- the 20 black and white photos are of varying quality. This tome is for aficionados who crave detail, insider information, candid conversations with producers and assessments of who does what best.
Source: sfgate.com; “Wine books for novices and Russian River aficionados,” Linda Murphy, December 15, 2005
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Australia's Record Grape Glut Continues
Australia's grape glut shows no signs of abating, with official figures this year pointing to another bumper harvest.
The Australian Bureau of Statistics said estimates for 2005 match the record two million tonnes produced last year.
The wine industry is enjoying strong export volumes but the oversupply of produce means growers are suffering from falling grape prices.
The biggest producing state, South Australia, recorded a drop in production of three per cent this year, to 861,500 tonnes.
Victoria and NSW, the next largest growing states, showed increases in production - up four per cent to 551,200 tonnes in Victoria, and up five per cent to 508,300 tonnes in NSW.
Red grape production, at one million tonnes, is slightly higher than the white grape production of just under 980,000 tonnes.
Around 1.8 million tonnes of grapes has been harvested for winemaking.
South Australia remains the highest red grape-producing state with 52 per cent of total production.
Victoria is Australia's biggest producer of white grapes with 35 per cent of total production, followed by South Australia with 32 per cent.
Growers cultivated 166,700 hectares of vines this year, up slightly on the 2004 season.
A federal parliamentary inquiry this year found Australia's grape growers were doing it tough, with the oversupply often resulting in prices below the cost of production.
But the Senate committee, which delivered its report in October, ruled out government intervention in pricing or any structural adjustment for the industry.
Instead, the report recommended a better regulatory framework, including amending the Trade Practices Act to strengthen contractual arrangements and introducing a mandatory code of conduct for growers and winemakers.
The committee laid some of the blame for the grape glut on a tax incentive for planting vines introduced in 1993 and scrapped in the 2004 federal budget.
Source: seven.com; “Record grape harvest continues,” Editorial team, December 22, 2005
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Berkeley Wine Dealer Receives Chevalier de la Legion d'Honneur
Berkeley wine importer and merchant Kermit Lynch will be awarded the insignia of Chevalier de la Legion d'Honneur by the French government at a private ceremony next year, Lynch said last week.
Established by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1802, the award is France's highest accolade and is given primarily for military achievements, although 10 percent of the awards are now given for cultural accomplishments.
In the world of American food and wine, Lynch joins Julia Child, Robert Mondavi and Robert M. Parker, Jr. as recipients of the award. Other Americans to receive the award include Leonard Bernstein, Josephine Baker, Duke Ellington, Gregory Peck and Ronald Reagan.
"Wine is older than politics and religion," Lynch said in a press release, "and I am grateful to see that respect still exists in spite of certain transitory situations."
The majority of wines imported and sold by Lynch, who opened Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant in 1972, are small-production French wines made by family-owned businesses. Lynch owns a home in Provence and is co-owner of Domaine Les Pallieres winery in Gigondas.
He was previously awarded the Chevalier de l'Ordre de Merite Agricole by the French government.
Sanford winemaker dumped: Sanford Winery & Vineyards dismissed longtime winemaker Bruno d'Alfonso this week, three months after Richard and Thekla Sanford announced their departure from the Buellton winery they founded in 1981.
Chicago-based Terlato Wine Group bought a minority share in Sanford Winery in 2002, subsequently increased its share, and is now majority owner.
Terlato spokesman Phil Rozen confirmed that "the business relationship between Bruno and the Terlato Wine Group has ended," and said the Terlatos "wish Bruno success in his future endeavors."
Doug Fletcher, director of winemaking for the Terlato Wine Group, will oversee winemaking operations at Sanford in addition to Terlato's other California wineries, Rutherford Hill Winery, Chimney Rock Winery and Alderbrook Winery.
The Sanfords, credited with being first to plant Pinot Noir in the Santa Rita Hills in 1971, are developing a new winery named Alma Rosa Winery and Vineyards, working with 100 acres of Pinot Noir vines they own in the Santa Rita Hills.
Jest maker changes course: Global Wine Group, the Woodbridge-based parent company of Jewel Collection winery, has announced an agreement with Hambrecht Wine Group to manage sales and distribution for Hambrecht's Belvedere, Bradford Mountain and Jest brands, starting Jan. 1.
Just one year ago, Hambrecht Wine Group restructured its marketing operations and entered into an agreement with Michael Mondavi's Folio Wine Co. for distribution and marketing of its wine portfolio.
Source: sfgate.com; “France pins medal on wine dealer,” Cyril Penn, December 22, 2005
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Too Much A Good Thing The ‘05 Harvest?
Wow! It’s finally over. One of the longest harvest seasons ever with so many grapes that the tank and barrel manufacturers are as tired as the harvest workers. Barrel and stainless steel tank sales soared as an incredible volume of fruit poured in from this years North Coast harvest.
However, not all of the grapes made it to the wineries as there were entire vineyards with grapes still hanging into mid and late November when one would assume they finally gave up the ghost. If you like Port, there should be plenty to go around.
Mother Nature sends a mixed message
There were some areas that weren’t as fortunate as others. For instance the coastal areas of both Mendocino and Sonoma Counties saw a very light crop. Areas such as the Anderson Valley Appellation in Mendocino County and the Sonoma Coastal Appellation in Sonoma County saw a significant set back in the production of Pinot Noir Grapes while other Mendocino and Sonoma County Appellations saw a problem getting enough storage for their bounty.
The interior appellations of Napa, Sonoma and Mendocino Counties all experienced an increased yield compared to last year while some areas saw up to 30% increases over the 04 harvest. Most vintners are quite excited with the quality and quantity of this years crop, a rare combination indeed. It is commonly heard that more tonnage per acre tends to lead to less quality. The harvest of 2005 may cause some to rethink their position as it has been rumored this year may be one of the highest quality years for a California vintage.
This harvest was a boon to the home winemaker as there were still some grapes hanging on the vine after most wineries had filled their quotas and tanks. The savvy home winemakers were running around like kids in a candy store picking up premium high brix fruit at value prices. Before everyone starts getting concerned about the overabundance fruit let’s remember the last time this happened in 1997 the following year provided one of the lightest crops on record.
So, how did the vineyard / winery sales go this year?
As winter rains put the vines to sleep and the hard work slows down for a few months, grapes growers are paid for a years worth of hard work and it is time to reflect on our blessings of being able to live and work in this beautiful part of the world.
All in all the vineyard values have increased this year over 2004. There appears to be more high-end buyers coming to the table with disposable cash that wish to live the dream of moving to the wine country. Our Vineyard and Winery sales numbers are up this year over 2004 and it appears that things are not slowing down. The biggest problem is finding enough properties for those selective buyers.
The Tortoise and the Hare
Along with more and more sales taking place we begin to see a huge influx in the number of real estate license applicants coming in to the industry. They all have hopes and dreams of making a “Big Killing” in the business. The profession becomes flooded with amateurs, novices from every walk of life trying to make a quick buck.
There are a certain few that discredit our profession with sales tactics that are on par with the negative stereotype of a used car salesman. Needless to say, just a few spoil the image of most professionals that have worked diligently over the years to establish a good clean reputation and that strive to help people with their needs. This is not intended to discourage or disparage any new agents that are sincere about a long term real estate profession. However, getting a real estate license is the easy part. Once the new agent works through their friends and family the real challenge begins. Welcome to the business.
However, when things slow down most of the amateurs and quick buck artists leave the business like rats leaving a sinking ship. The constant influx and exit of novices in our profession in my nearly 40 years has caused our real estate purchase agreements to go from a simple one or two page agreement, to a volume of legalese, hold harmless provisions, and has caused our E & O Insurance to become prohibitive. Then once they have done the damage, they leave their rubble when the going gets tough and the remaining professionals to clean up.
The agent/broker shouldn’t just work for the commission, they must work for the client. If the agent/broker does a good job they get rewarded. There is no guarantee in this business; it’s all up to the agent/broker to prove him/herself and finding that perfect property for their clients, no matter how long it takes.
Tell them what they want to hear
Why is it that some Real Estate Agents/Brokers will tell a prospective Seller anything to get their listing? The obvious answer is to get the listing but this truly does a disservice to both the seller and agent. In the recent past of the fast moving residential market of lower to medium priced homes, it hasn’t mattered what a property is listed for as there have been several buyers waiting in line that would start a bidding war.
However, in a specialized market place of selling high-end estate properties, large estate, vineyard and/or winery properties where there are less than 1% of the buyers, it’s a different business. We see so many sellers listing their property with agents/brokers that usually are selling lower priced homes and don’t have a clue of how to market the higher-end properties. They tell the seller what the seller wants to hear, usually a higher price than the property is worth and they get the listing.
They tell of the thousands of cooperative agents that they are part of, all of which have several buyers just waiting for that listing to come on the market, and “Presto”…. the seller bites and the property is listed way over it’s real market value and it goes in the MLS Computer with hopes that some other agent out there in MLS Land will find a buyer for this over priced property. The agent and his/her company spend money promoting this property. The seller sees little or no action and everyone is upset. The agents that show the over priced property are usually using it to help sell a better priced property of the same type.
The Tortoise and the Hare approach
In some cases our firm will work with sellers for up to 5 years before they decide to sell their property. Most of the larger estate, vineyard or winery properties have been in the family for decades and it is important to move at the pace that that the sellers wish to