Avenue Vine

A roller-coaster harvest season had growers and wineries responding alternately to warm and cool weather. “It was a Jekyll and Hyde crush this year,” said Bill Knuttel, winemaker at Dry Creek Vineyard. “A tale of two harvests,” described Fred Peterson, owner of Peterson Winery. After an early bud break in March, a dry spring, and a steady summer of warm days and cool, foggy nights, the ideal growing weather suddenly changed. Late in August and early in September, the fog disappeared and the heat climbed into the high 80s to high 90s for about 10 days straight. Just as suddenly, heavy fog rolled back in on September 7 and an extended cooling trend began.

“There was a dichotomy,” said Peterson, “either the fruit came in early, before or during the heat wave, or it didn’t and came in later. Site and microclimate differences were magnified. This is not a year when normal generalizations apply.” This was clearly exemplified at Dry Creek Vineyard. “During the first week of September, one vineyard of every variety we make was harvested,” said Knuttel. “The vineyards that had shatter, due to poor set in the spring, ripened really fast.” If the crop load was bigger, the grapes were not far enough advanced in ripening to be as affected by the heat, and were picked later."

Dry Creek Valley Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay:
For most Dry Creek Valley wineries, harvest began the third week in August, two weeks earlier than the previous year. “We started picking our estate Sauvignon Blanc on August 22,” described Sarah Quiver, winemaker for white wines at Ferrari-Carano Winery in the northern end of Dry Creek Valley. “With the heat that began in late August, grapes just kept coming in. Once the weather cooled down, some sugars actually went backwards. We finished harvesting all of our Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay grapes by October 2. Our overall Dry Creek Sauvignon Blanc grape yields were down approximately 20 percent from the last 5-year average, but the concentration and intensity of flavors is incredible. Our Sauvignon Blanc has wonderful grapefruit, kiwi, pineapple and floral characteristics, with a touch of grassiness in some lots.”

Mauritson is also pleased with the aromatics and flavors of his Sauvignon Blanc. “The warmer weather produced softer acids and round, tropical fruit flavors,” he said. Knuttel had similar accolades, “The Dry Creek Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc offers grassiness, citrus, tropical fruit and beautiful aromas.”

At Michel-Schlumberger, located mid-valley in the steep, western hillsides, harvest began with Pinot Blanc on August 20 and followed up with Chardonnay about a week later. “Despite the warmer temperatures, the Chardonnay retained a very nice, concise, acid/pH balance,” explained Mike Brunson, winemaker and vineyard manager. “It was during harvest that we noticed many of our crop estimates were down by as much as 15 percent. The high quality of the fruit distracted us from the low quantities. The Chardonnay wine lots are distinctly Dry Creek with clean jasmine and citrus rind aromas filling the cellar.”

Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel:

“This is a good year for Zinfandel,” said Christina Pallmann, winemaker at Fritz Winery, nestled in the northeastern hillsides of Dry Creek Valley. “Zinfandel is a fussy grape,” she continued. “We thinned twice, to eliminate unevenly ripened clusters, in order to get even maturity and color. The early lots are exhibiting deep fruit qualities—tar, violets and black fruit.”

“The early evaluation of wine from Zinfandel grapes of the 2007 vintage is very exciting and encouraging; possibly the best in the last 60 years,” said John Pedroncelli, winemaker at Pedroncelli Winery for six decades. “The wines have great color, full berry flavors with great natural acid balance. The crop on the Pedroncelli estate vineyard was down about 15 percent from last year’s production.”

Most wineries brought their Zinfandel grapes in during the month of September, however, A. Rafanelli Winery had about 90 percent of their Zinfandel harvested by September 4. “It looks great,” said proprietor Dave Rafanelli. “A lighter than expected crop speeded up harvest. Vines can ripen the smaller volume of fruit more quickly than a bumper crop.” Dry Creek Vineyard also picked their Zinfandel in early September. “The reds in general have good color, good medium-bodied tannins and great fruit,” said Knuttel.

Winemaker John Olney summed up this year’s Zinfandel harvest for Ridge Vineyards Lytton Springs:

“Despite uneven berry sizes, ripening was even throughout the cluster with only moderate shrivel, very little raisining and uniform dark berry color. Sugars in the fermenter were somewhat higher than expected but with excellent pH. The wines have exceptional concentration with full but supple tannins. So far, 2007 appears to be a vintage that balances power and finesse.”

Dry Creek Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and Other Reds:
The low-pressure system that arrived the second week in September cooled temperatures into the mid-70s and low 80s with daily fog and cooling afternoon breezes. “The cooler temperatures allowed for a less hectic pace for picking and fermenting,” said Eric Cinnamon, winemaker at Rancho Zabaco. “The first storm arrived in mid-September. We had some cloudy days with sporadic showers, slowing ripening and pushing off picks. Sun and temperatures in the 80s returned the last week of September.”

With the cooler temperatures, the reds had plenty of time to “hang out” and ripen at a nice slow pace. “It shows in the fruit,” said Brunson. “Syrah is inky and rich. Merlot is fruit driven with the ever-present spiciness of west Dry Creek Valley, and the Cabernet Sauvignon showcases Dry Creek Valley with distinct cherry, blueberry aromas and flavors, and ripe mountain tannins.”

On the warmer eastern bench lands, Jim Forchini of Forchini Vineyards was all finished by September 26. At Montemaggiore, in the steep western mountains in the more southerly end of the valley, Vince and Lise Ciolino harvested two-thirds of their Cabernet on October 10. “The flavor maturity came early,” said Lise Ciolino. “The berries are in good shape, as we did not have any raisining.” On the eastern ridge top, Kachina Vineyards’ Cabernet ripened earlier than expected. “The fruit was ripe and balanced the first week in September,” said Greg Chambers, owner/winemaker. “Due to the shift to cooler weather, the valley fruit sugars went back into the vine, and did not reappear until the second week in October. Our Cabernet picking period was close to six weeks,” remarked Chambers.

Approximately 90 percent of Dry Creek Vineyard’s Cabernet Sauvignon grapes were harvested between September 25 and October 15. “The fruit quality is outstanding,” commented Knuttel. Although it rained a couple of inches between October 10 and October 12, the thicker-skinned Cabernet grapes were not negatively affected. Most Dry Creek Valley wineries and growers had all of their last Cabernet grapes in by October 15, before another round of rain began.

Growing Season Highlights:
“Spring rains stopped in March this year,” said Duff Bevill, past president of the WDCV and owner of Bevill Vineyard Management LLC. Total rainfall was 23”, about half of normal. Most of the reservoirs were full, but there was not excess water. “Growers started to actively farm with no wet, stuck tractors. Due to the low moisture, it was not a season with high mildew pressure. Frost was not a problem. Bloom started in May with temperatures in the 80s. The number of berries set is determined by bloom. In 2007, clusters were lighter and smaller,” he reflected. “The 2007 harvest was two weeks earlier than in 2006. It is a modest production with good color extraction and good flavors.”

“The 2007 harvest has been an interesting one,” commented Josh Bartels, assistant winemaker at Kokoma Wines. “The early harvest was not a concern with flavors and colors, but about juggling bottling and bringing in fruit. The colors and flavors for this vintage are intense, and the acidity is definitely significant. The 2007 wines will be stellar when finished.”

HEALDSBURG, CA--October 24, 2007