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September 12, 2007

WBW #37 - MUKUZANI the Georgian Wine Favored by Stalin

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Saperavi (Saperavi X Blaufraenkisch), is a red grape variety unique to Georgia and presented specifically in the Kakheti district. It is one of the distinguished representatives of the red grape varieties of the world and is cultivated in specific micro zones of the Kakheti district. It gives particularly splendid flavor to all red wines. (Saperavi, Mukuzani, Napareuli, Akhasheni and Kindzmarauli).

Saperavi grapes are known for their dark pink flesh and very dark skins, from which they get their name (meaning, literally "paint" or "dye"). These grapes are the most important for Georgian wine culture and produce deep red wines which are suitable for extended periods of aging, up to 50 years.

There are three main kinds of wine made from saperavi grapes: kindzmarauli, which is aged for two years, mukuzani, aged for three years or more, and a variety aged for only one year, known simply as saperavi.

Mukuzani, made exclusivly out of Saperavi grapes is said to have been the favorite wine of Stalin. Stalin was born in Gori, Georgia on 21st December, 1879. He was his mother's fourth child to be born in less than four years. I wonder when he had his first drink of this red wine?

Stalin was the longest ruling Soviet leader. Soviet radio began to issue grave account's of Stalin's health (March 2, 1953). Stalin at 73 years of age suffered Tass reported was a cerebral hemorrhage. He died at 9:50 p.m. on March 5, 1953. Thousands lined up in the snow to see Stalin's body allying in state.

The crowds were so large that some people died in the press to see the Soviet leader. Some estimates are as high as 500 deaths. Stalin was interred next tgo Lennin in the Red Square mausoleum.

Some maintain that Stalin was poisoned.

One historian charges that Stalin was preparing an invasion of Western Europe and knew that would be a disaster for the Soviet Union. The historical record supporting this is weak.

Supposedly the deportation of Soviet Jews was a step toward raising tensions with the West. NKVD chief Lavrenti Beria (1899-1953) was supposedly a key plotter.

Of course Beria had more than World War III to worry about. He knew that Stalin periodically disposed of his secret police chiefs so that details of his crimes died with them. Thus he appears to have struck first.

There is considerable reason to believe that Beria poisoned Stalin. Beria is believed to have put rat poison in Stalin's Mukuzani wine. Beria was apparently concerned with good reason that disappointments in the H-bomb program had caused Stalin to prepare for his arrest. Here Beria struck first.

Stalin reportedly vomited blood laced with wine for 3 days. Beria in the annals of the 20th century is a man so monstrous that he is approached only by Himmler. In the end it did him no good. Before Beria could effectively use the NKVD to place himself in power, his Politburo colleagues expelled him from the Party...

Well that’s enough history and just a hint at the origin of this “indigenous grape variety”a wine hopefully filling the bill: “Go native!” one qualification for the WBW #37 exercise...

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Wine Blogging Wednesday #37: Pick a wine made from a grape variety that comes from a place it might call home.”

REVIEW:

2005 Mukuzani Kakheti Reqion, Saperavi Dry Red Wine ; $15.00, (84 points.)–APPEARANCE: Bright, deep opaque purple ruby; NOSE: Clean, sweet grape and fruit aromas, dark berries, hints of spice and mineral–ripe dark plum, black cherry and currant, hints of cassis, bramble, earth, cedar, stone and smokiness; PALATE: Dry, crisp acidity, medium ripe tannins, balanced and full with pronounce flavors of dark ripe berries, plum, spice and mineralty; CONCLUSION: Soft on entry evolving through pronounce rich ripe dark berry and plum fruits, warm spice, good depth, firm well structured, distinct earthiness as this dry red wine finishes moderately long and warmly austere. Drink now through 2028.

ADDITIONAL TASTING NOTES : A great food wine, low in alcohol: 11%. Would pair well with meats and hearty fare. I would like to taste this wine again in a few years... Plenty of fruit and well structured. Good buy at $12.00 to $15.00.

About Georgia:
Georgia is the oldest wine producing region of Europe, if not the world. Because of this, it is often referred to as "The birth place of wine" or "The cradle of wine making". The fertile valleys of the South Caucasus, which Georgia straddles, are believed by many archaeologists to be the source of the world's first cultivated grapevines and neolithic wine production, over 7000 yeas ago. Many also believe that the etymology of the word wine comes from the Georgian word for wine - gvino. Due to the many millennia of wine in Georgian history, the traditions of its viticulture are entwined and inseparable with the country's national identity.

Among the best-known regions of Georgia where wine is produced are Kakheti (further divided onto micro-regions of Telavi and Kvareli), Kartli, Imereti, Racha-Lechkhumi and Kvemo Svaneti, and Abkhazia.

About Saperavi:
Saperavi – is the most ancient Georgian grape and is of medium time of maturity. The leaves are big, roundish, with three lobes, the clusters are medium or big, conic. The berries are medium or big, eliptic, deep blue. The skin is thin, the pulp is juicy. The period from bud burst to full maturity in the suburbs of Khornabuji is about 150 days. The productivity is 80-120 centners/ha. The variety takes the first place from all the kinds of grapes by its frost resistance. It is medium resistant to fungus diseases. From Saperavi grapes red aged wine of the traditional European type is made. Wine materials from Saperavi are also blended with wine materials from Cabernet Sauvignon and Rkatsiteli for making semi dry wine. When blended with the wine materials from Malbec Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon, it is used for making “Kagor”. Variety is particularly important for making semi dry table wine “Kindzmarauli”, and wine materials obtained from Saperavi with wine materials from Aleksandrouli are used for making semi sweet wine which is like “Khvanchkara”. Saperavi is one of the most distinguished representatives of the red grape variety in the world and is cultivated in specific micro zones of the Kakheti district. It gives particularly splendid flavor to all red

Is a red grape variety unique to Georgia and presented specifically in the Kakheti district. It is one of the distinguished representatives of the red grape varieties of the world and is cultivated in specific micro zones of the Kakheti district. It gives particularly splendid flavor to all red wines. (Saperavi, Mukuzani, Napareuli, Akhasheni and MUKUZANIcork-w.jpgKindzmarauli).

Saperavi is being grown in Australia by a few growers who have had promising results

There is a “sweeter” version of this wine–maybe next time...

Georgian Wine History:
Winemaking is one of the ancient fields of agriculture and farming in Georgia. The history of Georgian winemaking has a tight connection with the entire history and religion of the country. Because of this, numerous foreign invaders targeted this industry to deliver a heavy blow to the morale and economy of Georgia.

One notorious invader - Temur “Leng” Korgan (also know as Tamerlane), a Mongol Khan of the middle ages, would cut down and burn out most of the vineyards in Khaketi (east Georgia).

Even with such hardships that formed the evolution of Georgia, the traditions of vine growing were treated carefully and transmitted over generations. In fact, many Georgian farmers compare the care they give to the grapevine to that of a child.It is this attention to detail and special devotion to their vine that has kept alive nearly 500 local Georgian vine sorts - 38 of which are used for commercial wine production. In 1999, "Vinopolis", the International Fair was held in London. Georgia was unanimously considered as the country of the most ancient wine industry of the world and consequently, the honorable first stand was conceded to Georgian companies.Some have argued the word “wine” itself is of Georgian origin (wine in Georgian language is called “Gvino”). Most recently archeologists discovered seeds of vines dating back 5000 years.This finding is displayed at the Wine Institute Museum in Tbilisi

Winemaking as an academic major was taught in Georgia as early as 8-9th centuries.One of such schools was Ikalto Academi where viniculture and winemaking was major field of study.

70 years of communist rule have reflected negatively upon Georgian wine tradition. Industrialization and collectivization set wine production back in all fields. Early in the 1990’s a new growth in this field and in just a few years Georgian winemakers have made tremendous progress. A 3 step system of wine production established during Soviets which divided this industry into wine growers, wine processors and wine bottlers, was replaced by full cycle wineries. State owned vineyards which grew the grapes and were graded not on the quality of grapes grown but on quantity are being replaced by private vineyards that spare no effort to improve the quality of the grapes.

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Georgia is considered to be one of the oldest homelands of viniculture in the world. It has been shown that wine-making in Georgia has been practiced since the 3rd millennium BC. For many centuries wine has remained one of the fascinating symbols of Georgian history and culture. Grape growing is one of the ancient branches of economic activities of people in Georgia.

Names such as Khvanchkara (h-vahnch-kah-RAH) and Kinzmarauli (kinz-mah-rah-OO-lee), natural semi-sweet reds, are virtually unpronounceable to the average American, at least not without practice. However, Saperavi ("sah-peh-RAH-vee"), a dry red, and Tzinandali (tzee-nahn-DAH-lee"), a dry white, are slightly easier to pronounce.

Saperavi Wine is named after a grape unique to Georgia. Kindzmarauli Wine uses the same type of grape, but is harvested late, acquiring a sweeter taste, as is Akhasheni (ah-hah-SHEH-nee), another popular Georgian red wine. The bright red Khvanchkara is a late harvest wine that uses another indigenous grape, Alexandreuli, and is grown at a higher altitude.

Tsinandali uses the Rkastiteli grape, which is also indigenous to Georgia. First imported to California 20 years ago, it has become one of the most popular varietals in the world.

During holidays Georgians drink wine as they do during all big family gatherings or when guests pay their visits. Strict order reins at the Georgian table. The head of the Georgian table is Tamada, a person who proposes traditional toasts. Noone has the right to propose a toast without the permission of the tamda (toastmaster). Normally the tamada proposes 20-25 toasts during a meal that may last 5 hours. Often a horn-shaped vessel is used for "special" toasts or honored guests. The last glass of wine should be emptied because you “must not leave tears” to the owner of the house.

In the area of manufactured wines, Georgia can be divided into two zones: East and West. Kakhetia and Kartli are grape regions in the Eastern zone. Kakhetia cultivates mainly white grapes such as rkatsiteli, and hikhvi. As for red grapes they produce saperavi and cabernet. Kartli specializes in grapes such as chinuri, aligaute, tavkveri, and gorouli. On the basis of these grapes, these regions the mild wine “Tsinandali”; a rough, thick, strong wine “Saperavi”; a wine unsurpassed in regards to flavor and aroma called “Kindzmarauli”; an original wine, “Tesmani”; and a peculiar wine “Gurdgaani”.

Imeretia, Megrelia, Guria, Adgaria, Racha-Pekhchumi, and Abkhazia regions belong to the western zone. In these districts grapes such as tsitska, tsalikouri, krakhuna, alexanderum are cultivated. Along with specific table wines they produce the material for champagne manufacturing, and wines such as “Khvanchkara” and “Tvischi”, which have gained a success similar to the table Kakhetian wines.

Overall, Georgia produces over 50 brands of table wine. There are three methods of making white table wine: they are Kakhetian-Eastern (fermentation of must together with the pulp of grape skins and pits), Imeretinian-Western (fermentation of must partially adding the pulp), and European (fermentation of pure grape juice must without pulp).

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Wines are divided into the sorted and blended categories. Sorted wines are made from one kind of grape. Blended wines are made from different sorts of grapes. It is necessary to mention that Georgian wines are numbered and named after the territory from where they are produced, or numbered and named after the grape sort from which they are made. In addition to this in Georgia they produce table wines, semi-sweet wines, sweet wines, dessert wines, sparkling wines, vintage wines, and ordinary cognacs. It is remarkable of Georgia that people consume only limited amounts of strong drinks such as sweet liqueur or “chacha”. Liqueur is made of fermenting jam or different fruit, which are usually a little spoiled and are not good for eating. “Chacha” is a fruit home-brew, which is sometimes called vine vodka. Chacha is made of cake (grape residual left after making wine), fig, tangerine, orange, and mulberry. The method for producing chacha is the same as that for making Russian home-brew. Traditionally they drink chacha in small cups (25-30 grams). In Western Georgia chacha is accompanied with a sweet snack, in Eastern Georgia chacha is followed with a salted snack.

According to Georgian legend, God took a dinner break while creating the world. He became so involved with his meal that he inadvertently tripped over the high peaks of the Caucas us, spilling his food onto the land below. The land blessed by heaven's table scraps was Georgia, which explains the nation's famous agricultural production.

Eating together is more important in Georgia than in the United States, in part because of the emphasis that Georgians put on family. Whereas we hold big family meals on holidays such as Thanksgiving, the Georgian supra is a common event. The word supra literally translates as "table."

While it may differ elsewhere, wine is a part of Georgian heritage, associated with celebrations, holidays and religion. Archeologists have carbon-dated accumulations of grape pips (as evidence of wine making) in Georgia, dating from 7000-5000 BC. Christian icons include wine motifs; and Georgia has a toast-making tradition, with the tamada, a toast-maker in charge of the lengthy, poetic, Georgian toasts.

In Tbilisi, there is even a Winery Museum! It contains a wine collection of 140,000 bottles, including some rare specimens: An 1806 Hungarian wine, old African wines, mead bottled in 1747, and vodka distilled in 1717. Using over 500 varieties of grapes, Georgians produce wines of amazing variety.

But people also enjoy making wine at home. Grape arbors shade the patios of traditional two-story homes in the port city of Poti. Like everything else on the table, crafted entirely by the cook's hand, the wine you drink is often made by the family from their over-arching grape branches on the garden patio, and served in traditional clay jugs called kvevris.

Georgians don't generally make wine from anything other than grapes. They gather grapes from the garden in summer and run them through a special machine to squeeze the juice out. Then they filter the pulp out, add sugar, and let the juice sit for a month or two and ferment.

Georgians pride themselves, with some justification, as the bons vivants of the former Soviet Union, and their culinary tradition has survived.

Georgians pride themselves on their reputation for being gregarious and hospitable. Foreigners sitting in restaurants are likely to have unsolicited bottles of brandy or wine bestowed on them by complete strangers. They will then be expected to raise (and empty) their glasses in response to an endless string of elaborate toasts, preferably interpolating a few suitably enthusiastic toasts of their own into the sequence.*

*Source: Ndoba - Georgian Wines

Last but not least:

VIDEO OF GUYS CLEANING OLD IN GROUND CLAY TANKS:

ABOUT: Wine Blogger Wednesday, (WBW)

A wine made from a grape variety that comes from a place it might call home.”

And Mentioning [MY] involvement in WBW:

March 08, 2006
WBW #19: 2001 Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde de Guigal

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March 14, 2006
WBW #19 Roundup Posted

April 12, 2006
(WBW #-20), Wine Blogging Wednesday No. 20--AvenueVine's Decantation

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May 19, 2006
WBW - # 21, May 19th “Fabulous Favorites Festival”

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June 06, 2006
The WBW - #21 Round-Ups Are In–Yeaaaa!

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June 15, 2006
WBW#22 Low Ball Red From India

June 16, 2006
The WBW #22 Wound-up is up!

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July 05, 2006
Wine Blogging Wednesday (WBW) #23--Bar-B-Que Wines!

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July 07, 2006
WBW#23 Round up - BBQ Wines!’ Is down...

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August 02, 2006
WBW #24 - Drink Loire Whites! TODAY...

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September 13, 2006
Wine Blogging Wednesday (WBW) #25 Announced: "CHAMPAGNE, Hic!"

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September 13, 2006
AV's WBW #25 --Billecart-Salmon 2003, Blanc de Blancs Champagne

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November 08, 2006
WBW #27 ICE WINES! & WBW #26 Wound Up, tooo...

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November 08, 2006
WBW #27 ICE WINE, The Assignment

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November 20, 2006
The WBW #27 WOUND-UP!

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December 13, 2006
WBW #28: Non Champagne Sparklers!

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December 20, 2006
WBW #28 Assignment--Sparklers! - UPDATED

December 20, 2006
WBW #28 Wind-ups Is out.. - REVISED:

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January 17, 2007
WBW-29, Wine Blogging Wednesday, TODAY!:

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February 07, 2007
Wine Blogging Wednesday, (WBW #30), Announced: New World Syrah/Shiraz - That's New World Syrah/Shiraz, or Shiraz/Syrah!

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February 07, 2007
Avenue Vine’s WBW #30 Assignment New World Syrah/Shiraz Views

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February 18, 2007
WBW #30 WOUND-UP!

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March 14, 2007
Off We Go Into the Wild Wine Blogger Wednesday, WBW-#31 Announced

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September 12, 2007
WBW #37 - TODAY FOLKS!

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(updated: 09/14/07) - ... Mentioning [MY] involvement in WBW

Posted by fortna at September 12, 2007 08:53 PM

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Comments

Mr. Vino’s comment on the Avenue Vine’s tidbit:
“Dave had fun with photoshop (he also did a nice mashup [Graphic] for this WBW) and they have another one with Stalin for their detailed write-up of Saperavi Mukuzani from Georgia.” [Avenue Vine]

Posted by: Editor at September 18, 2007 03:28 PM

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