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July 24, 2007
Thoughts On “Higher Alcohol Wines” From Randy Dunn
Before getting into the subject of “Higher Alcohol Wines” a little back ground on Randy and his family vineyards. Dunn Vineyards is located east of St. Helena in the town of Angwin on Howell Mountain. In 1972 Randy and Lori purchased the original vineyard property. The property size would increase over time, but the first purchase was a total of 14 acres. Only five of those acres at the time were vineyard.
Several vineyards dot the hills owned by the Dunns. However, the best part is that these vineyards are literally just dots in the forested hills. Dunn Vineyards and Randy and Lori Dunn own over 200 acres, 30 of which are planted. Sixty three of those acres are entrusted to the Napa Valley Land Trust. This insures that regardless of who owns this land in the future it will stay as it is now- trees. They have vineyards as old as 32 years and as young as 3.
They have 24 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon. There are 6 acres that have Petite Sirah, Syrah, Sangiovese, Scarlet and Concord grapes. They have several rootstocks: 3309, St. George, 420A and 1104. There are a few different clones of Cabernet Sauvignon on the property. Some of them are 337, 15, 4 and two others they call Dunn, and Frank.
Their winery was established in 1979, with the first harvest of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. In 1981, the first release offered consumers 660 cases of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Howell Mountain vineyards. In 1982, Dunn released a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. In the mid 80’s, production at Dunn Vineyards outgrew the existing winery, so in 1989 the caves were completed. These caves would provide barrel storage. In 1991, Dunn Vineyard’s property grew with the purchase of Park Muscatine’s 40 acres. At the turn of the Century, they planted our Lake Vineyard. This vineyard replaced a hayfield that Randy and the family had been harvesting for the last 20 years. Also in 2000, Mike began working full time in cellar.
In 2001, the fermentation tanks were moved to the cave’s entrance. With the help of a close friend, Glen Ragsdale, Randy built a catwalk and arch above the tanks. Pumpovers are much easier now. In 2004, Randy and Lori purchased the Sentinel Hill, located just as you drive into the town of Angwin. This land consists of 63 forest acres. That same year, Randy and Lori donated the land to the Napa Valley Land Trust. The old white house that was the original home and winery site was remodeled in 2005. This was the original home Randy, Lori and Mike moved into back in 1978. The house had white tin on the outside and therefore got the title “the white house”. The remodeled house includes living space as well as one large room for the office. Now, Erin Begerow, our office manager can enjoy some space in the office. In June of 2005, Kristina graduated from Cal Poly in San Luis Obispo, and returned home to take part in the Dunn Vineyards operation. Currently Dunn Vineyards produces around 5000 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon.
In 2003, Randy Dunn became involved with Long Shadows Vintners in the Columbia Valley appellation in Washington. Currently Randy is the winemaker for Feather, which is producing 430 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon. If you are interested in the wines please visit www.longshadows.com.
TRULY A FAMILY AFFAIR--
Randy Dunn: founder, owner and winemaker. Graduated from UC Davis in 1975.
Lori Dunn: founder, owner, and family backbone.
Michael Dunn: son, cellar master and assistant winemaker. Mike attended Davis and graduated from UC Santa Barbara in 1988. Mike has been working here for the last 7 years, each year taking on more and more responsibilities. He has also provided new information, practices and procedures. Mike and his wife Kara have also just started their own wine label Retro Cellars. Information on their wines can be found at www.retrocellars.com
Kristina Dunn: the youngest in the family, recent graduate of Cal Poly San Luis Obispo with a BS in Wine & Viticulture, hopes to continue in her father and brother’s footsteps.
Erin Begerow: Office manager, with the family for the last 13 years Erin takes care of all office work as well as some wine pouring tasting events.
That introduction should suffice and now on to the premis of this article:
Randy Dunn, Regarding Alcohol Levels in Today's Wines
It is time for the average wine consumers, as opposed to tasters, to speak up. The current fad of higher and higher alcohol wines should stop. Most wine drinkers do not really appreciate wines that are 15 -16. +% alcohol. They are, in fact, hot and very difficult to enjoy with a meal. About the only dish that seems to put them in their place is a good hot, spicy dish.
I don’t believe the average person is so insensitive to flavors and aromas that they must have a 15% Cabernet, Chardonnay, or Pinot Noir to get the aromas and flavors. Influential members of the wine press have lead the score chasing winemakers/owners up the alcohol curve and now I hope that it soon will lead them down.
Winemaking is not really much different than cooking. The end product should be enjoyable to consume - not just to taste. Hopefully most who read this don’t think it’s a novel concept that we should be making wines to consume. Would you want to sample a soup, meat dish or other course that is so overpowering that you cannot enjoyably finish what is in front of you? These new wines are made to taste and spit – not to drink.
This is all linked to my views on the ever evasive and vanishing terroir; the subtleties of terroir in wines have been melted together in a huge pot called “overripe” or the vogue “physiologically mature” grape. Gone are the individualities of specific regions, replaced by sameness – high alcohol, raisiny, pruney, flabby wines. Likewise, the descriptor “herbaceous” was often used in a positive sense when describing Cabernets. Now it is the kiss of death. Voluptuous – I do remember seeing that only occasionally, but not on the aroma/flavor wheel.
So I would like the consumers to take the lead for a change, rather than being led. Ask for wines that are below 14% when you are out to dinner. The reactions are fun, but the results are not good for United States wines. The sommelier usually comes back with a French or New Zealand wine. On the restaurant level, high alcohol wines have reduced the number of bottles sold. It is very simple arithmetic; % alcohol times volume equals satisfaction. If % alcohol goes up, volume must go down for satisfaction to stay the same – or else we all get plastered.
Consumers – wake up and get active.
Reviewers – please at least include the labeled alcohol percentage in all your reviews, and try to remember that not everyone is spitting.
Yes, Randy, I’ll start including the stated percent alcohol in more of my reviews, and thank you for sharing you in depth thoughts and feelings on the subject of: “Alcohol Levels in Today's Wines.”
Contact:
P. O. BOX 886
Angwin, CA 94508
Phone: 707-965-3642
Fax: 707-965-3805
Email: dunnvineyards@sbcglobal.net
Website: www.dunnvineyards.com

Posted by fortna at July 24, 2007 12:31 PM
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Comments
I do not think that wine should be of higher alcohol. There are many other strong drinks. I like wine with 11% alcohol and no more. It won't be a wine with higher one for me.
tim dove
Posted by: Editor at July 25, 2007 07:57 AM