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December 19, 2006

NV Domaine Chandon Carneros Sparkling Wine, Reserve Brut: REVIEWED

SPARKLING WINE PRODUCTION

Grape Maturity:
The anticipation of each year's harvest and winemaking season arrives with the coming of spring. After a dormant winter grapevines begin to grow in early March with what the industry calls "budbreak." Approximately six weeks later "bloom" (flowering) occurs, resulting in the setting of the fruit. The flowering process normally last about two to three weeks, but can vary depending on weather conditions. After fruit set, the next significant step in the ripening process is "veraison," the period when the berry begins to soften. This softening is a result of the berry beginning to accumulate sugar and marks the beginning of color change in the skin of the berry. Veraison occurs at about 8 to 10 brix (a measurement of sugar accumulation), and continues until approximately 12 to 13 brix.
left click image to enlarge:

Veraison is the time at which first maturity samples are taken. Maturity samples are taken by removing 25 to 30 grape clusters in a random fashion throughout the vineyard block. These clusters are taken to the laboratory at the winery, crushed, and processed, thus providing important grape composition data. The analysis of this juice results in brix, titratable acidity, and pH. Although sparkling wine is generally picked from 18 to 21, the early first sample provides us with a base line by which to measure our maturity curve.

The first sample is then plotted as a linear graph. The first point is the date of the first sample. The end point is the harvest date. Once the "base" point has been established, the team begins to sample the block three times per week, and plots every sample on the maturity graph. Ten to fifteen samples are taken per block, which insures more accurate record tracking of the ripening process. This sampling process is used in every block for both sparkling and varietal wine.

More importantly, as blocks mature the team continually walks the vineyards to taste the fruit. The analysis conducted on lab samples may show perfect maturity, but the most important factor influencing the harvest date is that of personal taste and preference. It is not uncommon for the fruit to have high brix, but lack physiological maturity and flavor development. By combining fruit composition analysis from the winery with personal taste and opinions, we are able to choose the optimum time of harvest, which results in the highest quality fruit possible. It is this high quality fruit that results in our outstanding wines.

Harvest Techniques:
At Domaine Chandon, we utilize different types of techniques to harvest our fruit. The first and most common technique utilized in the Napa Valley as well as at Chandon is harvesting by hand during the day. The second technique, utilizes machines to pick mechanically.

Hand harvesting is conducted by workers who pick using a hand-held knife and fill small plastic bins that hold 25 to 40 pounds of fruit. These small picking bins are then dumped into larger 1,000 pound (1/2 ton) bins that are carried into the field on trailers, towed by a tractor. Hand harvesting during the day starts at dawn, in an effort to pick the fruit while it is still cool from the nighttime temperatures. We generally try to finish picking by about twelve or one o'clock in the afternoon before the fruit begins to warm up again.

Mechanical harvesting is another technique gaining popularity. All mechanical harvesting at Chandon is carried out at night, once again to pick the fruit while it is cool. Mechanical harvesters operate by utilizing a set of flexed, plastic rods that shake the vines and drop the berries off of the clusters. The loose berries drop onto a conveyor belt and are then placed into 1,000-pound bins. The main difference between hand and mechanical picking is that the cluster stem ("rachis"), is left on the vine during mechanical harvesting, delivering only berries with no stems. No matter what harvest technique we utilize, the key is to pick the fruit while it is cool.

Regardless of the method of harvest, quick delivery is a very important component of delivering cool, high quality fruit. As 1,000-pound bins are filled, they are placed on a truck and delivered as soon as possible to the winery. We have exceptional vineyards that provide exceptional fruit, and care during harvest and processing is a vital part of wine quality.

Once the ideal flavors have been achieved and the fruit has been delivered to the winery, the winemaking process begins.

PHILOSOPHY
This Reserve Brut is a blend of some of their finest fruit from their vineyards. It’s created in a slightly robust and complex style that offers weight and dimension to the palate. In the blending process, the classic combination of two-thirds Pinot Noir and one-third Chardonnay was followed. For additional richness and complexity, small amounts of older Reserves were added. The wine was then aged for a minimum of three years–that’s a serious commitment to the traditional methods of their French heritage and to crafting world class wine.


REVIEW:

NV Domaine Chandon Carneros Sparkling Wine, Reserve Brut; $26.00, (91 points.)--APPEARANCE: Brilliant pale lemon green in color with long lasting medium sized bubble; NOSE: Clean, pronounce complex grape, yeast, fruit, citrus, cherry, spice and oak aromas: apple, pear, cherry, cinnamon, nut, herd and earth; PALATE: Dry, integrated, crisp, balanced, full smooth and creamy, proounounce flavors of yeasty bread, apple, citrus and pear fruits, pie spice oak and hints of earthiness.

CONCLUSION: Long, clean baked apple, citrus, cherry, pear and spice flavors on palate and a bright layered creamy fruit finish. Impresive.

ADDITIONAL TASTING NOTES: With the extended time on the yeast, this Sparkling Brut has a rich and creamy texture, combining yeast aromas and oak toasted nuts with layered fruit notes of cherry, ripe apple, citrus and pear; making for a wonderful creamy, layered, complex lingering finish and a very enjoyable experiance! Absolutely great with oysters, steak and porcini mushroom risotto. Have enjoyed this wine with Sushi, tempura and roasted meats.

Winemaker: Wayne Donaldson

Appellation: Napa and Sonoma Counties

Composition:
80% Pinot Noir - a black grape used for structure and flavor.
14% Chardonnay - a white grape used for delicacy, finesse and aging potential
4% Pinot Meunier - a black grape used for added depth and maturity.
2% Pinot Blanc - a white grape used for added complexity and texture.

Aging Profile: Minimum of 3 years on the yeast
Magnum Available

Posted by fortna at December 19, 2006 02:54 PM

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