Avenue Vine

Bulgaria is about the same size as Tennessee, and it’s divided by the Balkan Mountains, which run from east to west. The regions north of the Balkans tend to be cooler, while the southern regions see a little more heat. There are five distinct regions where wine is produced.

About 30 percent of Bulgarian wines come from the Danube River plains. This region stretches from the northeastern corner to the center of Bulgaria. Here, Gamza is a beaujolais-like varietal, with delicate nuance. These are made to be consumed within a few years. Additionally, there are some nice dry muscats from the Danube River plains.

The eastern coastal region is host to many different varietals, since the climactic difference from the north to the south is considerable. Another 30 percent of Bulgarian wines come from this region.

The Thracian Valley rests against the southern edge of the Balkan Mountains. Here, Mavrud is the grape of choice, and these wines exhibit character similar to cabernet or merlot. Mavrud is the highest-quality wine produced in Bulgaria, and these small, thick-skinned grapes provide robust flavor and plenty of tannin, which facilitate long-term aging.

To the southwest is the Struma Valley. Here, Melnik is the local varietal, and these wines are reminiscent of zinfandels or syrahs. Cabernet sauvignon and merlot are also grown here.

In the center of Bulgaria is the valley of the Roses. This region is known for cabernet and merlot.

A couple of weeks ago, I met a fellow named Vance Petrunoff at the farmer’s market. As it turns out, he is America’s largest importer of Bulgarian wines, and he is based right here in Sonoma. His company, Bulgarian Master Vintners, L.L.C. has been at it for 10 years, and most of his business is Internet-based. I spent a few hours at his office this week, where I learned much about this ancient wine-producing country, and tasted some really good wines!

The reputation of Bulgarian wines has suffered in the past decade. I was surprised to learn that much of this was a result of inexpensive jug wines being sold here by Pepsi Cola. Trakia and Sofia (a red and a white wine) were conglomerate, cheap bulk wines. Pepsi was exchanging bulk Bulgarian wine for Pepsi concentrate, and had little if any regard for producing quality wine. It was merely a vessel to convert bartered goods into cash.

“Pepsi didn’t care about the brand management, cost position, marketing, none of it,” commented Petrunoff. “They only wanted their dollars out of it.”
Prior to the fall of the Iron Curtain, Russia was purchasing all of the Bulgarian wine, which was being shipped out in “ridiculous” packaging, according to Petrunoff.

Today, premium producers from all over the world are focusing on Bulgaria as “the next big thing.” Good quality wines are emerging, and it is difficult to locate a Bulgarian wine that retails for more than $10!
New vineyards are being planted, and boutique wineries are popping up throughout Bulgaria. There are over 70 wineries in Bulgaria today.
I was surprised to learn that the Fruit Basket, of all places, has a wide selection of Bulgarian wines. Check it out!

One suggestion for learning about Bulgarian wines: On Petrunoff’s Web site (www.BulgarianWine.com) he offers a “Bulgarian sampler case” for $99.

2005 Balkan Hills Muscat, Targovish T.E.
This wine boast beautiful and clean aromas of flowers and honey, followed by nice honeysuckle and crisp mineral flavors. This wine comes from the Danube Plains, and it has just a hint of sweetness. It’s very light and pleasant. $8

2002 Suhindol Gamza, Estate Bottled
This alluring wine shows aromatic components of black cherry and forest floor.
Light crisp flavors of leather and black fruit give way to a smoky finish. This wine should pair nicely with cheese or grilled meats. $8

2004 Vini Cabernet Sauvignon
This wine is the négociant project of Vance Petrunoff, who brought in fellow Bulgarian Miro Tcholakow (winemaker at Trentadue Winery) to create this wine. The nose shows nice cedar and blackberry, while flavors of red fruit, bittersweet chocolate carry on through the finish. This is a very drinkable wine for only $6.99

2000 Domaine Boyar Cabernet Sauvignon, Reserve
The smoky, raspberry nose leads to fruit-forward flavors of red cherry and pomegranate. Nice acidity suggests food compatibility. Cabernets from this region (the Thracian Valley) are usually picked at lower sugar (about 22 brix) which give them nice tartness. $7.99

2004 Brevoso Winery Mavrud, “Assenovgrad Region”
White pepper and mineral aromas frame up flavors of plum, pepper, and nice round cassis. This wine is well balanced, subtle and tasty. Try it with grilled lamb! $9

Source: “Bulgarian wine – the next big thing?” Bradly Gray, Sonoma Valley Sun, May 24, 2006