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October 27, 2005

Peju Province a California Table Wine

The wine, the place, the people–founded in 1983 by Anthony and Herta Peju

I first tasted this wine at the July 18, 2005, “PINK OUT!” Yep! I’m finally getting doing the formal tasting after too many incidents to talk about here...

I very much enjoyed meeting Herta Paju, owner Peju Province and Colleen McCafferty, Wholesale Support Manager for Paju Province at the Pink Out. Herta and I spoke at length about her love for animals, especially her ducks, swans and roses. Heata is a woman full of life–she has that glow of happiness beaming from within.

Colleen is very knowledgeable about all of the Peju wines–I liked talking over my perceptions of the Peju Province, California Table Wine, as we both sniffed and tasted it there on the edge of the ole’ San Francisco Bay. While we talked, Colleen instructed me that the “Province” is more of a "Cuvée" in that it is an ambitious blend particularly of different vine and grape varieties, i.e.: both red and white.

A few day ago I had the opportunity to listen to Paju’s winemaker, Sean Foster, while covering the “Napa Valley Appellation Panel Discussion” at Copia Saturday, October 15th, 2005. Sean is well spoken and portrayed the geologic farming of the various vine plots used to make the estate wines of Peju–more on Sean later, and to read about his talk during October 15th, 2005, click here: “EVENT REPORT: Taste of Copia-Napa.”

Peju Province Winery is recognized as one of Napa Valley's top wineries.

About the Pejus:
The love of farming and a passion for wine brought Anthony Peju to the Napa Valley. A series of ideas, starting in Peju’s birthplace on the Caspian Sea, then France, England and eventually, Los Angeles, that created their Napa Valley winery.

Tony Peju studying film at LACC and UCLA, worked many jobs, hen he met Herta Behensky, his future wife. Herta, his wife, encouraged him and together with her help, a Mustang as a down payment, landscape companies, florist stores, buying and selling properties, looking all over Southern California for an appropriate 500 acre farm site--Napa Valley seemed to be right, even though he was forced to trim his expectation of 500 acres.

Their purchase, in 1983, what turned out to be just 30 acres but it had the magic ingredient–location. Neighboring vineyards at Rutherford included: Robert Mondavi, Inglenook and Beaulieu. Situated between Highway 29 and the Napa River, the acreage included a 1900-era house and rambling vineyards, some 60 or more years old, planted to Cabernet Sauvignon and French Colombard.

45% of this wine’s grapes, Peju Province, come from the 1950s, planted French Colombard vineyard, named “The HB Vineyard” for his wife Herta Behensky.

Looking to the future, Tony and Herta have introduced their two daughters, Lisa and Ariana, to the workings of the wine business. Both of the young women are immersing themselves in all aspects of Peju Province Winery.


PejuTower-w.jpg

“It is in visiting the winery that the meaning of its name becomes apparent–Peju Province. Invitingly, Peju created a microcosmic province, a land of beauty and a multi-sensory experience where the fragrance of rose and wine mingle, where art and agriculture meet, where splashing fountains echo the sound of the good wine being poured inside”–I can’t wait to go there and experience it all!


The Vinyards:
PN Vineyard--Ideally situated between Highway 29 and the west bank of the Napa River, the vineyard is part of the Rutherford Appellation, a 6 square mile region famous even by Napa Valley standards. Nearby are the historic vineyards of Inglenook (now Niebaum-Coppola), Robert Mondavi, Beaulieu and Caymus. The soil at HB Vineyard is deep and well drained, formed by three alluvial fans which supply gravel and sand to the valley floor’s deep loamy soil. The sub strata are augmented by marine sedimentary materials with some volcanic deposits. Water flows easily through the soil and drains to the river.

Rutherford is at the valley’s widest point and so has longer sun exposure and therefore a higher radiant value than other parts of Napa Valley. UC Davis categorizes the area as Region II. Despite the warm growing temperatures, the vines are cooled in the evening by the northern reaches of San Francisco (San Pablo) Bay. A typical summer day sees evening temperatures drop by 40-50 degrees. Cool night temperatures allow the fruit to ripen slowly, maturing tannins and balancing acids in the long growing season. Rain in Rutherford comes mainly in the winter months, 26-36 inches annually, filling the aquifers and reservoirs which are necessary in the valley’s irrigated vineyards.

It is perfect terroir for wine grapes. But even in such a grape paradise there can be problems. Like most of the old plantings in Napa Valley, Peju’s vines were originally planted on root stock not resistant to the devastating phylloxera louse. In addition, the old vines were coming to the end of their productive years and the blocks of Colombard were not the ideal varietal for Rutherford. In 1990 the decision was made to replant.

Persephone Vineyard--As the reputation of Peju Province and the winery’s location on Highway 29 proved to be good for business, demand soon exceeded supply.

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Pope Valley is a section of the Napa Valley Appellation a few miles to the northeast of Rutherford, and St. Helena separated from them by Howell Mountain and the Vaca range. It is higher than Napa Valley, colder in winter, hotter in summer and without the abundance of water. But the region has been producing wine and wine grapes since the turn of the last century.

Persephone, named after the goddess of Greek mythology. It is 350 acres at an elevation of 2000 feet and was the last level, plantable acreage available. It has three feet of loamy topsoil in many places, then 4-5 feet of shale--water, three ponds and two wells.

In 1997, 120 acres of the ranch was planted to Cabernet Sauvignon cloned from the HB Vineyard, as well as Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, Petit Verdot, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Zinfandel. In Pope Valley the flavors are more focused—mountain flavors—so blending great wines with both complexity and focused characteristics.


The Wine Maker:
Sean Foster grew up in Saratoga, California. He learned about wine at home at an early age from his parents who enjoyed California Chardonnays.

After high school Foster enrolled at UCLA to study biochemical engineering. During his first few years there he occasionally brewed beer to enjoy with friends and he began to drink wine, but there was no hint of his future profession. By his third year of study he realized that he didn't want to just be a scientist. Rather, he wanted to find a field where he could use his scientific skills and then enjoy the end product.

After harvest, he returned to UCLA for a short time, only to leave during his next to last quarter to accept a full time job in the cellars at Merryvale. During his nine year tenure there he was a "cellar rat" for three years, becoming assistant winemaker in 1995, and associate winemaker in 2001. In July 2002, he joined Peju Province Winery as winemaker.

"Here at Peju, I have the pleasure of working with a number of varietals. It's a great situation for a young winemaker," says Foster. Foster lives in Napa with his wife and new son, Fynn. He is a member of the American Society for Enology and Viticulture, and is currently attending UC Davis to complete his MBA (Masters of Business Administration)."

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Review and Tasting Notes :

Peju: NV Province California Table Wine; $18.50, (88points)--Brilliant, glowing ruby red leaning toward light garnet with pronounced long slow legs; moderately powerful aromas of tart berry, strawberry, raspberry, plum, jam, floral and coffee; dry with a touch of herb and citrus acidity–medium to full bodied, balanced and tantalizing; leading to a moderately long, complex, refreshing, finish–an excellent wine.

Descriptive Notes: Slow, warm, fills and refreshess the mouth, changing as it passes fruit to the back of the nose, a dancing clean sensation ends this wonderful dry evocative “Cuvée / Blush Wine.” Just great the way this fills the mouth, the citrus herb must come from the Colombard, the Sauvignon Blanc? I can’t wait to taste this with everything.

About The Wine:
50% Napa Valley, 45% Mendocino, 5% Califotnia.
23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 7% Syrah; along with 45% French Colombard and Sauvignon Blanc.

The blend consists of 50% finished estate red wines and 45% French Colombard which comes from the old head-trained vineyard in Redwood Valley-Mendocino County.

Alcohol: 13.5%
pH: 3.60
Total Acidity: 0.77 g/100ml
Residual Sugar: 0.9
No. of Cases: 3,362
Date Bottled: 05/05
Date Released: 06/05
Price: $18.50

Contacting PEJU PROVINCE:
ADDRESS: P.O. Box 478
WINERY: 8466 St. Helena Hwy. - Rutherford CA 94573
PHONE: (707)-963-3600 Fax: (707)-963-8680 (800)-446-7358
WEB SITE: www.peju.com
E-MAIL: info@peju.com

PRODUCTION: Currently 30,000 cases annually
VINEYARDS: 30 acres Rutherford: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,Cabernet Franc.

350 acres Pope Valley, 120 planted to: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Petit Verdot, Zinfandel.

WINERY: Located in Rutherford, 50 miles north of San Francisco, 10 miles north of the town of Napa.

Open daily 10 a.m.-6 p.m.

Posted by fortna at October 27, 2005 01:00 AM

Comments

Wow--I wasn't expecting such a lengthy review. Thanks for all your time you spent on that!

Posted by: Colleen McCafferty at October 21, 2005 03:11 PM

Yep! Colleen, After just getting over like 6-7 weeks of a bad bug, that killed both taste and smell.

It had been so long since I'd had any good wine to taste, too.

I did get a little carried away, but you knew I liked the Province from before...

I did try so hard to be objective, though :)

I'll get to that Cab when I return from Copia and Pinot on the River.

Talk to you then, thanks again--take care

Posted by: Dave Fortna at October 26, 2005 02:56 AM

I really enjoyed reading your long enthusiastic sounding review of our PEJU Province Wine.

That is what I like!

I loved the vineyard description of our Persephone Ranch Vineyards.

And the cork photo with the foil - very cute!

hb

Posted by: herta Peju at August 8, 2006 05:47 PM

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